Copyright & licenses

Creative Commons License
This work is under a Creative Commons license. All right reserved world wide.To copy, distribute, use this work for commercial purposes or transmit it without my permission is illegal and a criminal offence persecutable by law.


The black series. Blood concept

Blood Concept surprised us all with their perfume range concept based on different blood types. Now they are ready to move forward and explore new dimensions so they propose to discover their dark side. This new concept will be unveiled this week during the Traoni Fashion festival. The "black Series" have been created to bring darkness under a spotlight, new roles of seduction, increase sexual healing and need of power. Still no flower notes on these perfumes as before. This time the metallic nuances from their previous fragrances habe been replaced by darker and deeper notes, so they will exude a mysterious and charming nature even if made with the most daring and experimental combinations. Black O, the animal identity. Kinbaku, the japanese art of bondage inspired this scent, which wraps and involves with breathless dramatic notes Like a string of skillfully tightened knots on the skin. Like the cruel suffocating embrace of a inexorable and beloved executioner. It countain notes of yuzu, blood orange, hemp, carrot seeds, dark Woods, amber and leather accords. Black A. The green identity. An adorable and aphrodisiac poison. Mandragore roots and angelica seeds compose an anything but harmless scent, which seizes and narcotizes. And reveals the fatal hidden side of nature, so dangerous and frightening, but also captivating and fascinating. Notes of ginger, black Coffee, mandragore, angelica seeds, sandalwood, benzoin and amber. Black B. The nomadic identity. The dark side of culture, the bitter fruit of discoveries’ thirst. Occult rituals and mystical beliefs. A long journey into ourselves andour souls. Black B is a shamanic potion, coming from far away. A black juice of unknown formula full of mysterious suggestions. Notes of gun powder, earl grey tea, roiboos tea, Inoki accord, ambroxan, Gaiac wood, and leather. Black AB. The mineral identity. A scent for the contemporary des Esseintes. Sidereal citrusy and mineral spicy notes leave place for a inedited aldehyde and synthetic drugs combination. A kaleidoscopic rise between chemical distractions and artificial paradises. Backward to future, “on dirait”. It countains aldehydes, bergamot, green pepper, metyl-pamplemousse, mineral notes, piperonale accord, white Woods and musk. Again, Blood Concept brings something new and exciting to the perfume industry. I particularly can´t wait to try "Black AB" and "Black B" as they fit into my personal taste. We can only sit, wait and be prepared to be greatly suprised.


A new perfume. Comme des garçons

Rei made it again! After some extremely boring and mainstream launches, the japanese company come back to their origins and dive again into their most abstract/industrial/conceptual and creative side, where other fantastic perfumes such as Odeur 71, Odeur 53, or their Synthetic Series have been delivered in the past. This new "avant garde" conception is based on the idea of a perfume that couldn't exist in a bottle that shouldn't exist and is described by the brand as an “industrialized flower to go with the glue, an imaginary flower from an unknown civilization.” The packaging design is rather striking, entirely made of one pieced cardboard folded in "origami" style into a beautiful, yet simple, white box. As usual, "Comme des Garçons" know how to approach the Japanese tradition of deconstructing their designs into now-a-days. The bottle is made of recycled glass with an decomposing, melting design. The Eau de Parfum countains notes of aldehydes, safraline, hawthorn ,lilac, flower oxide, industrial glue accords, brown Scotch tape, musk and styrax. It was composed by perfumer Antoine Maisondieu. This is a linear perfume that takes you on a journey: where you start is not necessary where you end up and in this case, the destination is every bit as good as getting there. "A perfume" opens delightfully with a clean, bright burst of aldehydes which blends immediately with the lilac flower and the glue accord. At one point, the packing tape and the glue accord are right on your face, perhaps a bit too much, but as the fragrance develops, it smooths back into a lightly sweet scent as the lilac reigns through the whole life of the juice pulling together both the artificial and the natural nuances at its most fleeting and delicate. During the drydown, the floral oxides bloom like imaginary flowers from an unknown civilization, while the industrialized notes of glue and packing tape pull the guilty pleasure in the composition. In this phase, "A perfume" delivers exactly what it promised: the most true to life rendition of Brown Packing Tape and Bostitch Glue, which are smells that usually don't belong to fragrances but we all still love (same as the gasoline, kerosene, steam iron, wet soil, brand new cars, tar and so on)and they show themselves as aseptic, brand new-like accords, but even then, they are able to provide a remarkable warmness and a touch of humanity to this futuristic juice. "A perfume" represents both the florals and the synthetic components in a sort of familiar yet completely new way. Even the flowers here are industrialized, sort of alien, they still are clearly flowery and organic and enough harmoniously balanced to be labelled as a modern flower perfume. "A perfume" is surely an android but with a big red and pulsating heart. The new Comme des garcons fragrance is to my nose, a terrific perfume, modern yet extremely solid, very distinctive, versatile and easy to wear and surely, not for everybody. Even it is tagged as unisex, its amount of floral notes makes it unfortunately, a little bit too feminine to my taste. Its lasting power and projection are superb! Copyright © 2013. All rigths reserved

Blood Concept perfumes

After a long time with nothing new under the sun (something clearly reflected in my passivism to write anything lately) Mr. Antonio Zuddas and Mr. Giovanni Castelli bring us under their arm "Blood Concept". First thing that crossed my mind when I heard of it, was an overwhelming need to find these perfumes: the concept was so bizarre, so grotesque but so romantic as well that I needed to own a piece. “Blood concept” is based on the idea of the compatibility of a perfume with your blood type. The fragrances are available in 40ml absolute perfume dropper, 30ml and 60ml eau de parfum. The bottles are silver, with a nice retro, minimalist design. It is impossible to talk about these new fragrances without mention this now-a-days new romantic vampire trend that has born since "Twilight". The actual truth is that "Blood concept” has nothing to do with vampirism (despite its name and visuals)It is certain (speaking on a commercial point of view) that the name and product marketing may seem risky, but the reality is that we are facing a range of different yet accessible and easy to wear unisex fragrances. A: It is to my nose the most accessible of the whole “Blood Concept ” scents. It’s an intensely aromatic-vibrant fragrance. It countains notes of green garden, tomato leaves, basil, star anise and metallic notes. This is a precious green scent. I can detect straight away the basil and the tomato leaves (jointed maybe with geranium leaves?) and the anise accord in the background. It has a distinctive metallic note on it but it come across rather natural as it blends very nicely with the whole composition. It is a clear, metallic nuance flashing like lightning, heady, here and there, represented mostly like a surreal, mineral note. "A" is an unique, juicy, little ambery and bright perfume in a vegetal way. It's not exactly green and certainly not floral but it is wonderfully fresh and the safest choice of the whole range. B: Brings the vampire spiciness in the range. It has notes of red apple, black cherry, metallic notes, artemisia, pepper, pomegranate, black tea, patchouli and teck wood. When you read the composition of "B", you end of thinking that this is the second most accessible of the "Blood Concept" fragrances and that is really because there are a number of easy- to-wear notes throughout it but at the same time it has a really fascinating, unpredictable soul. Now, I have to say it, but this how imagine a vampire skin would smell. I can see Leslat, Louise or Edward Cullen smelling like this… Yes it is sweet. Yes, it is slightly spicy but it has also a muted yet lively human nuance in it that blows me away while I am sniffing it: Imagine you are embraced by a bloodsucker and you are fully hypnotized by his beauty and his body scent; even you feel that his skin is icy cold, you also feel underneath it the presence of warm, alive red blood. It is warm, but a frozen warmth. It is simply beautiful. Is the ultimate juxtaposition of the frosty immortality against the warm rush of blood in our veins. I think I love it. It smells like... a boyfriend, like the kind of smell on your skin that you don't everwant to get rid of. I don't really know how to explain it. "B" is a unconventional, dark mystery signified by spices and woods, tempered with subtle fruits and embedded with glimmering metallic and human nuances which embrace a camphoraceous patchouli base. I find hard to describe it in words, but as soon as you smell "B", you find out quickly how quite exceptional and different this perfume is. AB: is a mineral composition with notes of aldehydes, aluminium, slate, pebble, water, cedar wood and metallic notes. I love synthetic perfumes. And the reason why is simply because they have the fascinating capacity of draw in front of me olfactory landscapes. "AB" could represent very well the scented soundtrack of “Blade runner” or going beyond, it brings to me the nostalgic representation of how would smell all those futuristic cities that you recreated in your mind as a kid when you were fantasizing about the future. "AB" is all about cold and sharp. It is a loud perfume, and it opens with a blast of sharp, fizzy aldehydes that will remain through the whole life of the perfume. I can detect also a lime-ish undertone, which for moments, reminds me the glorious "CDG Soda". It is wet, little aquatic, but mostly frosty and heady, with an incredible, gorgeous mineral touch in it, mostly as a saline-like accord. At this point, it brings a dejavu of the smell into the air just before a storm. Yes, it is metallic but in a gorgeous, different way. Is the smell of the skin soaked in imaginary liquid aluminium. To my nose, is the real smell of human blood, dancing in the background, greatly represented, melting with the stale and the cedar, bringing some warmth into the coldness. "AB" is a static, angular, sharp, frosty, clean-fresh, sparkling and mineral perfume. As it develops there’s hardly much changes through it but it shines with a well blended notes sparkling all around you, by its minimalist and individual character. A real masterpiece. O: is a leather fragrance, composed of thyme, raspberry, cyperus, rose hips, leather, birch, cedar wood, metallic notes. “0” is an animalistic muted echo inside a cave. While all is apparently about leather and animal skin, I get a strong, but cold, even damp herbal nuance with a muted leather touch. To my nose, the cyperus note layered with thyme stand off the strongest adding a bizarre definition in the composition as a blurry, damp paper-like accord while is sweetened by the raspberry. Yes, there is leather too, but just as a whisper, in the background. "0" has an earthy, mineral-tinged, primeval forest atmosphere. It smells modern-urban but at the same time very primitive. Smoky, earthy and definitely bizarre. To me, it is a trange fragrance and it seems half finished. Seems kind of amateur, because there is no connexion or progression between the perfume's notes and the metallic accord here seems to be lost in translation. But as we all know, different people, different tastes. +MA: This one moves in a completely different direction as doesn't contain any metalic notes from the "O/A/B/AB" range yet still relates well with the line as it still has a "enfant terrible spirit" It's all about cleaness, cozyness and innocence of the mankind, and is recreated as a synthetic fragrance with an aqueous laundry detergent-like nuance all around it. "MA" is fresh in a very industrial way but at the same time sweet. I can smell straight away a fucus seaweed, note, some fake floral nuances dancing with a milky accord. It has some similarities with "Secretions Magnifiques" layered with "CDG Dry clean". I can also smell in it something industrial, perhaps vynil, perhaps ozone and bottled air... But then amidst all this, I detect the smell of human skin, but plasticky-like, kind of aseptic. "+MA" is an avant-garde statement for sure. I like it, a lot. In fact I wear it very often when I want to feel cozy and intimate outdoors. I honestly can’t have enough of "AB" and "B". Me, as a formal artist diving into this project, I have to recognize that is all about modernism and conceptualism and there’s nothing wrong about that. I do love art, and I do love to follow trends, and this project puts definitively something really new on the table: It’s a perfect match between art and perfumery. My only concern is the price, but pieces of art are expensive, aren't they? We can’t forget that other brands have offered similar conception, ending in that, only a conception without a real public i.e.: ELDO “secretions magnifiques” etc. As much as “Blood Concept” sounds grotesque and unapproachable, the real deal is nothing but a collection of original, well structured, individualistic and easier to wear perfumes, despite their transgressive spirit.


Kokorico. Jean Paul Gaultier.

"Kokorico" (what a weird, even stupid name) is the latest masculine release by Jean Paul Gaultier and is described as “a powerful and explosive aphrodisiac, emphasising woody and cocoa notes”.
The bottle is a black head with a cool feature: you can see the "Le Mâle" torso silhouette when turned on its side.

Perfumer: Olivier Cresp/Annick Menardo.
Notes of fig leaves, patchouli, cacao, iris, virginia cedar, tonka bean, vetiver.

"Kokorico" opens slightly green, acrid and dry. I expected something fresher though! Then cocoa, cocoa and more cocoa but not gourmandy as it melts with warm, dry woods (ambrox perhaps?) creating a bitter-dry cocoa scent with green notes in the background that definitively is not the fig leaf accord. Perhaps, at this stage, the vetiver becomes more apparent...
But there's also something else floating around, sweet and creamy, quiet at the start that gets louder as the perfume progresses.
Not bad. I am even impressed: a Gaultier's perfume that evades similarities with its older brothers.
Even so, soon, you'll start to experience a intense olfactory dejavú: "I have smelled this before"...

"Kokorico" is linear and only changes slightly after 20mt of apply, where an anise-like iris (and maybe lavender?) shows presence. To my nose is a very similar floral note as "Paul Smith Man". No lipstick, neither powdery accents: just a soft, spicy iris note minimized to the maximum.

Oddly enough by the time you get to the drydown, you still waiting for the "Ba Ba Boom" aspect in it, but sadly, everything is pretty much gone.
That is it. End of the story.
The remains: cheap and synthetic cocoa with vague patchouli and wood accords.
At this point it smells so cheap that loses quality. Disappointing.

It lacks projection to be noticiable enough and the fragrance longevity is just a joke: 2 hours and it's completely gone. Dissapear. Caput!

Unfortunately "Kokorico" won't bring nothing really exciting and new under the sun.
It doesn't have a particular personality as it resembles to many other perfumes i.e.: "B*Men", "L'istant Guerlain" or "Very Irresistible Men".
In brief, to my nose, possibly, "the worst launch of 2012" without the shadow of the doubt.
Copyright © 2012. All rigths reserved.


Dirty. Gorilla perfume.

"Dirty" is an unisex aromatic fragrance tending to the masculine side to my nose.
It's linear, clean fragrance despite its name and notes.

This time you can find the perfume in the same "Gorilla" black, minimal 50ml glass bottle or get the body spray with a distinctive design that share similarities with any window cleaner spray bottle.

"Dirty" is a deep unusal fragrance that hits you with intensely with the crisp, herbal notes. For me, is like a olfatory image of a warm, yet damp spring afternoon at a herb garden growing just next to the sea.
I can smell the thyme and the tarragon, but, a juicy raw mint is the primary note althrough the perfume.

"Dirty" is a rather linear fragrance but gradually changes a little when a salty-like airy accord appears accompained with the mint and some light sandalwood.

"Dirty" is a delightfully weird, compelling perfume. Let's say that could be my "guilty pleasure" (as "Lust" from the same brand).
You'll get a fresh, slightly sweet staleish mint, tarragon towards bitter unknown marine notes melting with whispers of sandalwood.

To my surprise, "Dirty" has a very good staying power for a “fresh” fragrance made of natural ingredients.
Copyright © 2011 . All rigths reserved


Smell of weather turning. Gorilla perfume

One word!: wow!
"Smell of Weather Turning" tries to recreate the smells after a thunderstorm.

Perfumers: Mark and Simon Constantine.
It countains notes of rain on grass, hay, smoky notes, mint, hay, chamomile, nettle, beewax, oakwood.

This stuff is delightfuly weird and evocative!

"SWT" opens with undefined accords and I can only describe it as a estrambotic olfatory image of leaves and tires burning on a bonfire mixed with the ethereal scent of a gloomy storm in the air.
There's definitively a "tar" or "burnt tyre" smell going on (indol?) during the opening that strechs a while through the fragrance's life.

Then, "SWT" turns slowly into a simple, calm, smoked mint-tea juice.
I can't detect much other notes unfortunately. The smell of rain on greenery and the storm scent passes and the smell of mint and smoky woods undertakes all.
Sometimes, it transport me into a moist forest, during a summer night, nettles all around it but it also reminds me the "CDG Series leave Tea".
Whatever. It's naturally and greatly weird.

"Smell of turn weather" is what you expect in a "avant garde" perfume without being "avant garde" if you know what I mean.
It's strong without being overpowering. It creates a lovely aura around you and it definiticely has the turn heads factor.
It's a highly interesting, vivid and impressive fragrance, but I still wondering while I sniff out my wrist if it is really wearable or not.
Maybe as a room perfume...
I highly recommend you to try this and decide for yourself.
Copyright © 2011 . All rigths reserved

Karma. Gorilla perfume

"Karma" is an unconventional fragrance launched by a funky company called "Lush" (I recently dicovered it since I moved to the UK) which has an interesting range of handmade perfumes branded as " Gorilla perfume".

Karma is an unisex fragrance and it's described by "Lush" as an addictive pine, orange and patchouli scent.
The bottle is black with a simple (even cheap) minimal design.

Perfumers: Mark and Simon Constantine.
"Karma" has notes of orange, lemon, lavender, lemongrass, pine needles, cinnamom, patchouli and elemi.

It starts with a shy citric rind top note that rapidly give way to the spices and develops into a gorgeus spicy-oriental arrangement of cinnamon, a resinous pine accord and patchouli blending all together creating a cardamom/cilantro-like scent with the fresh-spicy lemongrass and lavender notes in the background. But there's more: here it comes the frankincense?. Yes, I do smell a little hint of incense even is not listed in the formula and stays, for ages...

"Karma" is is a a dense, linear, deep, evocative perfume. You will love it or you will really loathe it!. It is an "in your face" spicy lemongrass/pine/patchouli/incense perfume.
It hangs around for hours and it has a lovely projection. Some other reviewers described it as “generic oriental” but I wouldn't labeled as generic. It's rather unusual, with its own character, it's pleasant, well-made, and the good news is its price: £20 per 50ml.
Finally cheap is chic comes together succesfully!
Thumbs up for "Lush"!
Copyright © 2011 . All rigths reserved


Aqua Fahrenheit. Dior

Perfumer: Francois Demachy.
Notes of mandarin, grapefruit, violet, spearmint, basil, Haitian vetiver and leather.

"Fahrenheit" launched in 1988, is one of the most popular men's fragrances now-a-days. After many variations on this theme, including intensive "Fahrenheit Absolute" from 2009, the house of Dior announces this summer a new fiery refreshment. "Aqua Fahrenheit" is the new fragrance, an explosive combination that symbolizes the element of water that gradually takes on the characteristics of fire.

"Aqua Fahrenheit" opens enough sparkling and zesty with a combination of the mandarin and the grapefruit to be considerated as an aquatic perfume on its early stage, but immediately turns into a linear fragrance tending to the floral-oriental side.
In the opening this perfume shares a lot of similitaries with the original "Fahrenheit" where I found the same petrol-like note, that fades away quickly.

After 5-10 min of application the mint comes to live accompained with a violet touch, very similar to the "He Wood wet woods" floral note without the powdery, salty and industrial fresh nuances and the same dark smoky vetiver from "Tom Ford Grey Vetiver" and stays like this mostly till the end of the perfume.

"Aqua" ends serene, smokey-fresh and smooth with the violet, the vetiver plus a light, soft leather / suede note.

Even if it has soft, aquatic touches I wouldn't describe it an "average" aquatic, because it has a deep, strong personality. It is true that it shares a similar spirit with the original but in some ways it smells wonderfully different, more modern and it is enough versatile to be used all year round.

I really think every man should own at least one version of "Fahrenheit". For me, this is my second favourite. Then, "Fahrenheit 32".
The longevity and projection are really good.
Copyright © 2011 . All rigths reserved


Nuit de cellophane. Serge Lutens.

Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake. Thanks Kate Spritz for the information :)
Notes of mandarin, aldehydes, chinese osmanthus, tuberose, carnation, lily, jasmine and white musk.

Lutens tries to create an olfatory scene of how a flower shop smells and the result is very uplifting. My immediate reaction was thinking about fresh cut flowers outdoors.

"Cellophane" opens sweet but bright at the same time. Its composition tries to follow a soliflor character: osmanthus. When first applied it smells a little indolic, even synthetic as a soft green floral.

But suddenly the perfume turns darker: the jasmine brings a dusty darkness that melts beautifully with the osmanthus. These accords are also very well-blended with the refreshing mandarin keeping it sweet yet light.
I can detect some tuberose in the background, but that is it.
It remains mostly minimal and linear.

In the drydown there is a breeze of crystal clear fruit touch that makes this perfume much less dark with some soft musky nuances.

"Nuit de cellophane" is a light, elegant fragrance for daytime rather than nights.
It is one of the few Lutens fragrances that I can easily wear despite of its
retrospective feminine floral nuances.
It has surprising longevity too despite how light and delicate it is.
Copyright © 2011 . All rigths reserved

Eau de fleur collection. Kenzo.

Kenzo creates a floral colognes serie which is based in the idea of capture and evoke a delicate trail of tree blossoms. He certainly did they job right.
It seems that Kenzo has found again their own successful path since the company launches “Power”, a masterpiece that has become really successful.
Now, with this collection he will assure good sales and, again, he will try to approach floral perfumes for everybody.

Eau de fleur de thé.

Perfumer: Aurelien Guichard.
Countains green tea leaves, tea flower, peony, mimosa and white musk.

"Thé" is the most masculine of the whole collection.

It opens quite transparent, light and green where the main accord is a light tea note, crispy and airy. Lovely.
In fact is a very refreshing scent without any sharp notes.
Soon the tea accord diffuses (but not dissapear), and get path to a lovely minimal bouquet of mimosa and peony. It immediately reminds me the sand-like- accord on the original Dior Dune. Then the mimosa gives a shinny golden cheerful accord. Not really my cup of tea, but the perfume is saved of the herbal green touch of the tea leaves.
The smell of the peony in the juice becomes the main note and mainly reigns above everything, just sharing its presence with the shy hint of green tea as soft smoky breathe.
It’s not overpowerful, is not oversweet. You find only balanced serenity, quietness and a delicious shy floral scent. Airy, close to skin fragrance. A peony fragrance for a brave man.

Eau de fleur de Magnolia.

Perfumist: Francis Kurkdjian.
Notes of bergamot, citron, heliotrope, spruce, champaca absolute, vetiver, musk.

"Magnolia" is a fantastic citrus floral. Unique and delightful.
Tending to linear, the perfume opens as it ends.
You can detect inmmediately the glorious radiance of the champaca flower watered in soft citrus notes, something quite unusual for a floral scent.
The whole juice develops airy and fragile, even refreshing, but it tends to a soft smoky side and bring me visual images of the tobacco pipe odour: lightly smoky
I couldn’t detect any spruce needles. Just a breath of vetiver on the base notes.

From the whole range this is my favourite.
Without being cloying the formula has its own character. Unique and a must-have for champaca lovers.

Eau de fleur de soié.

Perfumer: Jean Jacques.
Countains: bergamot, pink guava, mint leaves, silk flower, cherry and musk.

"Silk" is soft, watery, like the drewdrops, green, delicious, velvety. A nonchalant floral-fruity.
The formula centers itself in the silk blossom and the guava, a delightful exotic fruit.
Can’t detect cherry. Just freshness, a nice raw minty-like accord during the opening, the fruity guava note and a shy, light, white flower note, the silk flower, quite common in Asia.

Very shy, fresh, kind of ozonic, but unique regarding the blend of mint, flowers and fruits. An intimate and unique fragrance. My second choice of the whole range.

Eau de fleur de prunier.

Perfumist: Francis Kurkdjian.
Countains sakura blossom, mimosa, plum, akmond, white musk.

This is definitively the most minimalist and afemminate fragrance of the whole collection.
A refinated powdery-floral, delicate scent that brings me images of the plum blossom as a traditional symbol of spring in Japan.
This scent is both delicate and warm; the floral, fruity and almond notes are mixed artfully together in a way that makes Plum versatile and wearable, but still intriguing enough to garner constant compliments.
It is a very warm almondy floral. Cosy, soft and comfortable.
Perhaps the most suitable for cold days of the whole range.

Eau de fleur de yuzu.

Perfumer: Jean Jacques.
Countains green lime, grapefruit, yuzu, honeysuckle, petitgrain, jasmine and white musk.

It is tructured around the yuzu, an aromatic citrus fruit typical in ​​Japan, China, Korea and Tibet which has a grapefruit-like dour and the flower has a petitgrain/orange blossom-like scent.

The fragrance is rather linear and only differs in character during the opening, in a quiet way with a soft flowery whisper in the background while the main notes are a sharp, zesty and intense citric potpourri.

After a few minutes, the perfume becomes stronger leaning towards the citric-green-flowery side. The floral nuances start to raise beautifully melting with the uplifting citrics but becoming altogether as a soliflower accord: fresh, dominant petitgrain with lime lying in a base of soft musk.

In the drydown the floral notes change slightly wih a very natural reminiscent of taking a walk through a jasmine garden in a warm summer day.

"Eau de fleur de yuzu" is fresh, zesty, clean yet sweet and so Japanese (meaning its softeness). Gorgeous.
It feels fresh and make you feel connected to nature although with a somewhat elegant approach thanks to the quality of its ingredients that makes it less casual and more classy. Although it has obvious similarities with other famous "orange blossom" based colognes, this new Kenzo´s creation smells to me much more pleasant and less soapy compared to other creations with the same flower note.

I particullary dislike petitgrain and I always felt it as a sticky, feminine accord even when it has been used in masculine or unisex fragances, but this time, the increase of the citric notes gives the balance in the whole pyramid to make it as a quite unisex accord. Even so, "Eau de fleur de yuzu" is, perhaps, too flowery for a man.

I own "Silk" & "Magnolia" and I do really enjoy them as a day fragrance. I got many compliments when I use them. If I feel adventurous I spray on me the Magnolia and I love inmmensely; when I feel nestle the Silk makes the work really well.

They have an average long lasting and they tend to be a soft, close to skin perfume.
This collection is sold as unisex colognes in Asia but in Europe are sold as women fragrances.
Copyright © 2011 . All rigths reserved


Havana. Aramis

The original 90's Havana had notes of coriander, anise, birch tar, juniper berry, tangerine, grapefruit, orange, rum, cumin, Jamaican pimento, black pepper, jasmine, hyacinth, sandalwood, tobacco, patchouli, incense, cedarwood, myrhh, labdanum, oilbanum, tonka bean and vanilla.

The new Havana countains artemisia, caraway, mandarin, orange, birch tar, basil, rum, juniper, carnation, fir, jasmine, cinnamon, tobacco, sandalwood, patchouli, incense, labdanum, oakmoss and vetiver.

Havana was created in 1994 and it has been one of my favorite 90's scents.
Then, it was discontinnued in the 2000's.
Now, it has been re-formulated and even this new version differs from the original lacking some of the original strong notes, I don't really care, I still love this new version.

"Havana" starts with a blast of coriander accompained with some indistinctive spices mixed with the tar note that creates a deep, intense accent.
Then the juniper, the leather and tobacco reign above all. I can detect some rum and some spices sharing the stage with a dark jasmine.

The heart of the fragrance is a leathery-animalistic-tobacco like combination. The incense and the patchouli are the key notes that combine beautifully in the drydown.

The re-formulated "Havana" is the perfect classic chypre for winters and evenings. Some people may think it smells a little bit overrated but oh well, classics have always been the best (for me).
"Havana" has a great longevity and sillage that can be overwhelming if over-applied, so be careful when you apply!
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.

Cocktail Splash Curaçao. Marc Jacobs.

Perfumer: Yann Vasnier.
Notes of lime, blood orange, mandarin, violet, apricot, pear, white musk, sandalwood and moss.

Curaçao is inspired by the first sip of the cool, orange-flavored cocktail from the Caribbean island of Curaçao.

"Curaçao" is basicly an all over cologne with an aquatic, upllifting fruity spirit.
Being linear the main notes in it are juicy orange and lime persisting through the whole life of the cologne. The pear also comes to life in the middle notes giving a smooth sweet nuance. Only in the drydow the aquatic fruity notes will contrast with a light musky-woody accord.

"Curaçao" is the perfect daily summer perfume. Ir is smooth and cheerful, easy to wear. I particulary think it tends to the masculine side but I can see women wearing this with confidence.
It has a quite decent long lasting life and a lovely projection.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.


L'eau Serge Lutens. Serge Lutens.

Perfumer: Serge Lutens.
Notes: aldehydes, citrus, magnolia, white mint, clary sage, ozonic notes and musk.

Serge Lutens wanted to create the “anti-perfume” in a classic (and pricy) way, but is it really worth the money?

"L'eau" opens as it ends; there's no lemon, no bergamot or anything citrusy at all. Instead I only get a airy note like clean cotton freshly ironed.
There is not soapiness in it neither obvious floral notes. Instead I only detect a green soft note around (mint?). The first impression is not very positive. Not fresh, soft, clean and too natural to be an antiperfume.

The fragrance is linear, minimal. Well, to my nose, it's totally neutral.

"Leau de Serge Lutens" is literally a inoffesive, plain (even mediocre), close to skin cologne.
So, what's the point?, who want to pay a high priced experiment in anti-perfumery especially when you can find out there in the market cheaper and definitely more interesting concepts?
The longlasting is bad; the perfume disappears in 20-30 mins without a trace.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.

Spring perfumes

The warm weather comes back and with it, my outdoors social life and the never ending walks under the sun.
Here I leave you all the following list so you can find a good fragrance to confort yourself!

10:10 am in Sicilia is Kenzo´s new launch from the travel-retail-exclusive series. This new juice evokes the morning atmosphere of the Italian south shore. The composition is created as a citrus - floral - woody with notes of grapefruit, mandarin, bergamot, peony, freesia, fig tree, cedar wood and vetiver.

Angel Sunessence Ocean d'Argent is this year's summery version of the glorious "Angel".
It opens with fresh notes of kumquat citrus fruit, sea salt, ginger flower, patchouli and vanilla.

L’Eau par Kenzo Wild man / woman limited editions:

the woman fragrance explores the sparkling and fresh floral-fruity aromas with mandarin, green lilac, wild mint, rose wood, jasmine, amaryllis, lotus, Guinea pepper, white peach, vanilla, musk flower and blue cedar while the men is a refreshing aromatic-spicy fragrance with notes of lemon, ginger, coriander, mint, cardamom, sage, cedar wood and white musk.

Bvlgary Aqua and Marine summer versions:

Aqva Pour Homme Toniq is an invigorating fragrance with lemon, peppermint, Posidonia sea weed, vetiver and amber.
Aqva Pour Homme Marine Toniq represents the freshness of mineral waters with pear, grapefruit, crystal ice, Posidonia, sandalwood and white cedar.

Zen for Men White Heat comes in a silver-white bottle, offering an icy, fresh and aromatic combination of mint, green apple, lime, hassaku fruit, rhododendron, cardamon, juniper, green ginger, musk, sandalwood and salvia.

is a niche twist where no flowers to be found:
AB - an unisex mineral composition with aldehydes, aluminium, slate, pebble, cedar wood and metallic notes.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.


Cologne. Tierry Mugler

Perfumer: Alberto Morillas.
Notes of petitgrain, bergamot, nerolí, "s" note, orange flower blosson and musk.

"Cologne" is an atemporal cologne and when I write cologne I really mean it.

It is green, soapy, soft and clean. Don't expect much more.
The fragrance is minimal as a citrusy green flowery aroma.

After the uplifting opening it turns almost immediately to a green, soapy skin scent, with a touch of neroli and vetiver to give some floral touch to the central musk accord.

"Cologne" is also disappointing because it lacks of the natural nunace you will normaly expect in a cologne. To my nose it owns a weird unnatural accent ("s" note anyone?)that bring me olfative images of steamy baths, meaning that if you could capture the smell of having a cold shower in a hot summer afternoon, it will smell like "Cologne".

Don't get me wrong. This is not a bad scent. I just don't particularly care for it.
I personally think that is boring and a little overpriced being just a trendy splash all over cologne.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.


Bvlgary Man. Bvlgary

Perfumer: Alberto Morillas
Countains bergamot, violet leaves, pear, lotus flower, vegetal amber, cashmere wood, vetiver, cypriol, sandalwood, benzoin, tonka bean, white honey and musk.

The new masculine perfume from Bvlgary is a woody oriental fragrance as is described as an elegant and sophisticated vision of masculinity for an authentic man.
To my nose is a radiant yet light, transparent and very elegant fragrance.
Fantastic for the mature men.

It is almost impossible not compare this new perfume with "Mugler Cologne", another previous Morillas hit. Both perfumes share a clean and shy character. In fact
"Man" is very similar to "Cologne" in a drier way.

The opening is quite powerful where the violet leaf note shows presence and remains dominant over the woods in the drydown.
A progression of clean sparkling vetiver and mostly cashmere wood eventually turns into a soft and slightly sweet pleasant woody accord keeping like this all the way through.

"Man" smell great and it has its own character being quite a uncomplex perfume and without leaving a massive trail behind you. It is indeed fresh yet oriental in a weird way and definitely could be a everyday all year juice. I will wear it if I was the mature, suit dress code kind of man, but I particularly prefer stronger colognes.

It develops a pretty nice longevity staying more 4 hours but it has a minimal sillage as is a quiet scent.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.


Womanity. Tierry Mugler.

Thierry Mugler finally launches something new (perhaps) focusing now in a much wider general public and avoiding the unnecessary extension of the Angel or Alien's ranges.

Perfumist: Mane
Notes of fig, caviar and fig tree woods.

Despiste the feminine name and the horrid desing of the bottle dancing between the ghotic and the art decó, the juice is definitively unisex. It is extrangely interesting: a really unusual salty fig.
My first impression was a loud yet original sweet-sour perfume.

"Womanity" opens (and remains) linear with the thick and sharp note of the fig fruit catching wonderfuly the coconut-like undertone of it but lacking the characteristic greenish feeling of this fruit.
Mostly immediately the fig joins the stage with a weird salty note coming from the caviar that to me smells like fresh open shellfish as for instance, oysters.
It is a mainly fruity perfume with the dense salty, mysterious note of caviar. It is therefore a full-fledged gourmand perfume, foody (seafood) and carnal-frity.
The fragrance stays heady with great salty fruit touches and just after a few hours after apply the soft woody nuances come to life just as a whisper and then is when the fragrance becomes a little quieter.

My honest opinion: this is a very well done, addictive perfume.
A weird masterpiece where powerful contrast of elements merge beautifuly.
It has a fresh aura without having citric notes; it is welcoming , intimate, comforting as well as unique.

It is surprisely marked as a definitely feminine scent like it has happened before with Angel. Not to my nose and for some many other men noses around.
Both are masterpieces and both had not a single flower in the note list.
The funny thing about it is I own both in my perfume collection and I wear them with much confidence while I recieve loads of positive complimets.
Where have all the open-minded perfumist fans gone?

It has a decent long lasting (up to 7 hours) and the sillage is quite amazing leaving behind you a beautiful trail.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.


7 de Loewe. Loewe

Perfumer: Unknown.
Notes of Moroccan neroli, muguet, rose, pepper, red apple accord, absolute incense, vetiver, Atlas cedar and sof musk.

The new perfume from the Spanish designer dives (according to the marketing) into the real essence of the bullfighter getting ready for the "corrida" in those moments of preparation, surrounded of flowers, passion and mistery.
But the real stuff is that "7 de Loewe" = "CDG Kyoto" or viceversa.

This new fragrance has nothing to do with "Solo" (which has a more interesting floral twist than "7" in my opinion).

The bottle is horrid: it has a very dinstictive 90's tacky design: the matte glass is petrol blue while the atomizer structure and the spray buttom is made entirily of shiny chrome silver tone plastic that looks terribly cheap.

"7" opens soft, delicate, airy.
Not a single sharp note.
It is an intimate perfume, and this feeling goes more accentued by the very spiritual incense accord. To me, it mells like a cathedral or like a funeral home.

It is a linear fragrance without many changes. To my nose, is a blueprint of "Kyoto CDG, with some logical variations:

- The incense is more timid compared to "Kyoto".
- "7" owns a more noticeable frity-floral facet: shy rose, dewy lily of the valley and apple surrounding a velvety-peppery incense.

In the drydown the woody cedar appears but just in the background while all remain as a floral-incense accord.

The truth is that I expected something completely different, and by that I mean I'm not disappointed: it's true that I was expecting a good and innovative floral perfume, but the truth is that Loewe has decided to cover its back, throwing a good cologne that won't lean to the feminine side and yet, play the Russian roulette if we recognize that the Spanish perfume market is pretty manstream, where the classics are abundant and very few people are actually bothered in go beyond "L'eau D "Issey", "L'eau par Kenzo", "Le Male", "Hugo Boss Bottled" and "Dior Homme".
However, knowing the typical Spanish men's taste, I have to admit that "7" will have a good success within the metrosexual public.
In the other side, the people that go beyond and know what is going on in the fragrance market will stick in "Power", "Dior Homme" or "Fahrenheit 32" regarding a well done floral perfume.
Personaly I rather smell like azahar or wite ginger flower than like a church or a funeral home.

Incense lovers will love this as is a versatile juice but probably will chose "Kyoto" for the folowing reason: "7" it's a real timid, close to skin perfume having zero projection and a below average lasting power.
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.


Once upon a time. Kenzo.

Countains coriander, nutmeg, ginger and vetiver.

This was the perfume I saw (and mentioned before in another thread) at the duty free airport shop. Riddle solved!

"Kenzo Pour Homme Once Upon A Time" is a refreshing wet-woody-spicy fragrance.

"Once" starts slightly loud, even a little thick with the mix of nutmeg and coriander,
Even though the perfume is centered in nutmeg there's a general feeling of comfort in it.

The fragrance quickly turns itself into an airy, clean, soapy scent: The notes whose stand out are the vetiver, the nutmeg and then the ginger.
There's also has a wet aura in the pyramid.

"Once upon a time" is a fresh woody scent and a olfatory image of a deep forest moisted and damp, just after a rainy day. But you won´t find woods in it.
Kenzo brings another interesting concept. This time an opaque-aquatic-spicy fragrance but not heavy at all; I can't figure it as a spring-summer perfume.

It targets both the casual and the classic market.
The longevity is alright, no more than 4h.
The sillage is lovely, leaving a trail peaceful, nice trail.
If you like scents that evoke a quiet and natural environment, this is a very good choice.
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.


Kenzo homme woody / boisée. Kenzo

Perfumer: Olivier Polge.
Notes of mint, basil, black pepper, vetiver, rosemary, Atlas cedar and white musk.

Kenzo + Polge = Success.
Kenzo made it again!. "Kenzo pour homme boisee" is an aromatic/spicy and soft, woody gorgeous scent.
This new fragrance is supposed to be a flanker to the 1991′s "KenzoHomme"
They have nothing at all in common (the only real similarity being the shape of the bottle and a salty trail). That doesn't mean that it will be a big dissapointment for all the original "KenzoHomme" lovers like me, as long as they don't expect something as unique as the 1991's original.

It starts fresh and slightly spicy.
There is a lively explosion of a salty refined vetiver, sexy mint and a background of spicy basil. The herbal side of mint and basil is fresh and brilliantly light yet intens. Even though, it never becomes overpowering.
Being honest, at this stage, I was afraid, as the opening really blew my mind and I was scared, presuming that it could react as "Tokyo", when, after the top notes, the whole perfume lost all the character.
This is not happening in "Kenzo Boisée": the mint accompained by the glorious vetiver shows their presence all the way through, so the perfume becomes rather linear but deliciously addictive.

During the heart and the drydown, the linear formula changes a little with the soft, airy, light cedar accord. Here, the wood seems almost secondary, where the previous notes from earlier reign above all.
So this is not a deep woody perfume as it has been advertised (Thank God).
If you are looking for a real, light wood scent, you better go and sample the CDG "Wonderwood".

"Kenzo pour Homme boisée" is a magnificent, well put together fragrance.
Yes, it is salty but not as the original one, and also it is spicy and woody but nothing like "Jungle Homme".
It has the perfect balanced amount of very carefully (and intelligently) chosen ingredients By Polge.
Some people will compare it with the original and it will probably receive bad reviews without justice because they may find it a little mainstream compared to any other of the Kenzo's fragrance line.
I have to agree, but also, I'm happy to say that this new launch will have success in terms of being the best mainstream launch of this year for two simple reasons:

1. Polge always made great perfumes and this one is not an exception.

2. It leads us eventually to the woodiness side that everyone expects, making the scented trip really memorable.

"Boiséé" is not as loud as "KenzoHomme" and not as quiet as "Power". It has its own place in the middle, having a distinctive projection and a really good lasting power.
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.