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A new perfume. Comme des garçons
Rei made it again! After some extremely boring and mainstream launches, the japanese company come back to their origins and dive again into their most abstract/industrial/conceptual and creative side, where other fantastic perfumes such as Odeur 71, Odeur 53, or their Synthetic Series have been delivered in the past. This new "avant garde" conception is based on the idea of a perfume that couldn't exist in a bottle that shouldn't exist and is described by the brand as an “industrialized flower to go with the glue, an imaginary flower from an unknown civilization.” The packaging design is rather striking, entirely made of one pieced cardboard folded in "origami" style into a beautiful, yet simple, white box. As usual, "Comme des Garçons" know how to approach the Japanese tradition of deconstructing their designs into now-a-days. The bottle is made of recycled glass with an decomposing, melting design. The Eau de Parfum countains notes of aldehydes, safraline, hawthorn ,lilac, flower oxide, industrial glue accords, brown Scotch tape, musk and styrax. It was composed by perfumer Antoine Maisondieu. This is a linear perfume that takes you on a journey: where you start is not necessary where you end up and in this case, the destination is every bit as good as getting there. "A perfume" opens delightfully with a clean, bright burst of aldehydes which blends immediately with the lilac flower and the glue accord. At one point, the packing tape and the glue accord are right on your face, perhaps a bit too much, but as the fragrance develops, it smooths back into a lightly sweet scent as the lilac reigns through the whole life of the juice pulling together both the artificial and the natural nuances at its most fleeting and delicate. During the drydown, the floral oxides bloom like imaginary flowers from an unknown civilization, while the industrialized notes of glue and packing tape pull the guilty pleasure in the composition. In this phase, "A perfume" delivers exactly what it promised: the most true to life rendition of Brown Packing Tape and Bostitch Glue, which are smells that usually don't belong to fragrances but we all still love (same as the gasoline, kerosene, steam iron, wet soil, brand new cars, tar and so on)and they show themselves as aseptic, brand new-like accords, but even then, they are able to provide a remarkable warmness and a touch of humanity to this futuristic juice. "A perfume" represents both the florals and the synthetic components in a sort of familiar yet completely new way. Even the flowers here are industrialized, sort of alien, they still are clearly flowery and organic and enough harmoniously balanced to be labelled as a modern flower perfume. "A perfume" is surely an android but with a big red and pulsating heart. The new Comme des garcons fragrance is to my nose, a terrific perfume, modern yet extremely solid, very distinctive, versatile and easy to wear and surely, not for everybody. Even it is tagged as unisex, its amount of floral notes makes it unfortunately, a little bit too feminine to my taste. Its lasting power and projection are superb! Copyright © 2013. All rigths reserved