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19.2.13

Blood Concept perfumes

After a long time with nothing new under the sun (something clearly reflected in my passivism to write anything lately) Mr. Antonio Zuddas and Mr. Giovanni Castelli bring us under their arm "Blood Concept". First thing that crossed my mind when I heard of it, was an overwhelming need to find these perfumes: the concept was so bizarre, so grotesque but so romantic as well that I needed to own a piece. “Blood concept” is based on the idea of the compatibility of a perfume with your blood type. The fragrances are available in 40ml absolute perfume dropper, 30ml and 60ml eau de parfum. The bottles are silver, with a nice retro, minimalist design. It is impossible to talk about these new fragrances without mention this now-a-days new romantic vampire trend that has born since "Twilight". The actual truth is that "Blood concept” has nothing to do with vampirism (despite its name and visuals)It is certain (speaking on a commercial point of view) that the name and product marketing may seem risky, but the reality is that we are facing a range of different yet accessible and easy to wear unisex fragrances. A: It is to my nose the most accessible of the whole “Blood Concept ” scents. It’s an intensely aromatic-vibrant fragrance. It countains notes of green garden, tomato leaves, basil, star anise and metallic notes. This is a precious green scent. I can detect straight away the basil and the tomato leaves (jointed maybe with geranium leaves?) and the anise accord in the background. It has a distinctive metallic note on it but it come across rather natural as it blends very nicely with the whole composition. It is a clear, metallic nuance flashing like lightning, heady, here and there, represented mostly like a surreal, mineral note. "A" is an unique, juicy, little ambery and bright perfume in a vegetal way. It's not exactly green and certainly not floral but it is wonderfully fresh and the safest choice of the whole range. B: Brings the vampire spiciness in the range. It has notes of red apple, black cherry, metallic notes, artemisia, pepper, pomegranate, black tea, patchouli and teck wood. When you read the composition of "B", you end of thinking that this is the second most accessible of the "Blood Concept" fragrances and that is really because there are a number of easy- to-wear notes throughout it but at the same time it has a really fascinating, unpredictable soul. Now, I have to say it, but this how imagine a vampire skin would smell. I can see Leslat, Louise or Edward Cullen smelling like this… Yes it is sweet. Yes, it is slightly spicy but it has also a muted yet lively human nuance in it that blows me away while I am sniffing it: Imagine you are embraced by a bloodsucker and you are fully hypnotized by his beauty and his body scent; even you feel that his skin is icy cold, you also feel underneath it the presence of warm, alive red blood. It is warm, but a frozen warmth. It is simply beautiful. Is the ultimate juxtaposition of the frosty immortality against the warm rush of blood in our veins. I think I love it. It smells like... a boyfriend, like the kind of smell on your skin that you don't everwant to get rid of. I don't really know how to explain it. "B" is a unconventional, dark mystery signified by spices and woods, tempered with subtle fruits and embedded with glimmering metallic and human nuances which embrace a camphoraceous patchouli base. I find hard to describe it in words, but as soon as you smell "B", you find out quickly how quite exceptional and different this perfume is. AB: is a mineral composition with notes of aldehydes, aluminium, slate, pebble, water, cedar wood and metallic notes. I love synthetic perfumes. And the reason why is simply because they have the fascinating capacity of draw in front of me olfactory landscapes. "AB" could represent very well the scented soundtrack of “Blade runner” or going beyond, it brings to me the nostalgic representation of how would smell all those futuristic cities that you recreated in your mind as a kid when you were fantasizing about the future. "AB" is all about cold and sharp. It is a loud perfume, and it opens with a blast of sharp, fizzy aldehydes that will remain through the whole life of the perfume. I can detect also a lime-ish undertone, which for moments, reminds me the glorious "CDG Soda". It is wet, little aquatic, but mostly frosty and heady, with an incredible, gorgeous mineral touch in it, mostly as a saline-like accord. At this point, it brings a dejavu of the smell into the air just before a storm. Yes, it is metallic but in a gorgeous, different way. Is the smell of the skin soaked in imaginary liquid aluminium. To my nose, is the real smell of human blood, dancing in the background, greatly represented, melting with the stale and the cedar, bringing some warmth into the coldness. "AB" is a static, angular, sharp, frosty, clean-fresh, sparkling and mineral perfume. As it develops there’s hardly much changes through it but it shines with a well blended notes sparkling all around you, by its minimalist and individual character. A real masterpiece. O: is a leather fragrance, composed of thyme, raspberry, cyperus, rose hips, leather, birch, cedar wood, metallic notes. “0” is an animalistic muted echo inside a cave. While all is apparently about leather and animal skin, I get a strong, but cold, even damp herbal nuance with a muted leather touch. To my nose, the cyperus note layered with thyme stand off the strongest adding a bizarre definition in the composition as a blurry, damp paper-like accord while is sweetened by the raspberry. Yes, there is leather too, but just as a whisper, in the background. "0" has an earthy, mineral-tinged, primeval forest atmosphere. It smells modern-urban but at the same time very primitive. Smoky, earthy and definitely bizarre. To me, it is a trange fragrance and it seems half finished. Seems kind of amateur, because there is no connexion or progression between the perfume's notes and the metallic accord here seems to be lost in translation. But as we all know, different people, different tastes. +MA: This one moves in a completely different direction as doesn't contain any metalic notes from the "O/A/B/AB" range yet still relates well with the line as it still has a "enfant terrible spirit" It's all about cleaness, cozyness and innocence of the mankind, and is recreated as a synthetic fragrance with an aqueous laundry detergent-like nuance all around it. "MA" is fresh in a very industrial way but at the same time sweet. I can smell straight away a fucus seaweed, note, some fake floral nuances dancing with a milky accord. It has some similarities with "Secretions Magnifiques" layered with "CDG Dry clean". I can also smell in it something industrial, perhaps vynil, perhaps ozone and bottled air... But then amidst all this, I detect the smell of human skin, but plasticky-like, kind of aseptic. "+MA" is an avant-garde statement for sure. I like it, a lot. In fact I wear it very often when I want to feel cozy and intimate outdoors. I honestly can’t have enough of "AB" and "B". Me, as a formal artist diving into this project, I have to recognize that is all about modernism and conceptualism and there’s nothing wrong about that. I do love art, and I do love to follow trends, and this project puts definitively something really new on the table: It’s a perfect match between art and perfumery. My only concern is the price, but pieces of art are expensive, aren't they? We can’t forget that other brands have offered similar conception, ending in that, only a conception without a real public i.e.: ELDO “secretions magnifiques” etc. As much as “Blood Concept” sounds grotesque and unapproachable, the real deal is nothing but a collection of original, well structured, individualistic and easier to wear perfumes, despite their transgressive spirit.

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