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Nuit de cellophane. Serge Lutens.
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake. Thanks Kate Spritz for the information :)
Notes of mandarin, aldehydes, chinese osmanthus, tuberose, carnation, lily, jasmine and white musk.
Lutens tries to create an olfatory scene of how a flower shop smells and the result is very uplifting. My immediate reaction was thinking about fresh cut flowers outdoors.
"Cellophane" opens sweet but bright at the same time. Its composition tries to follow a soliflor character: osmanthus. When first applied it smells a little indolic, even synthetic as a soft green floral.
But suddenly the perfume turns darker: the jasmine brings a dusty darkness that melts beautifully with the osmanthus. These accords are also very well-blended with the refreshing mandarin keeping it sweet yet light.
I can detect some tuberose in the background, but that is it.
It remains mostly minimal and linear.
In the drydown there is a breeze of crystal clear fruit touch that makes this perfume much less dark with some soft musky nuances.
"Nuit de cellophane" is a light, elegant fragrance for daytime rather than nights.
It is one of the few Lutens fragrances that I can easily wear despite of its
retrospective feminine floral nuances.
It has surprising longevity too despite how light and delicate it is.
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