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Eau de fleur collection. Kenzo.
Kenzo creates a floral colognes serie which is based in the idea of capture and evoke a delicate trail of tree blossoms. He certainly did they job right.
It seems that Kenzo has found again their own successful path since the company launches “Power”, a masterpiece that has become really successful.
Now, with this collection he will assure good sales and, again, he will try to approach floral perfumes for everybody.
Eau de fleur de thé.
Perfumer: Aurelien Guichard.
Countains green tea leaves, tea flower, peony, mimosa and white musk.
"Thé" is the most masculine of the whole collection.
It opens quite transparent, light and green where the main accord is a light tea note, crispy and airy. Lovely.
In fact is a very refreshing scent without any sharp notes.
Soon the tea accord diffuses (but not dissapear), and get path to a lovely minimal bouquet of mimosa and peony. It immediately reminds me the sand-like- accord on the original Dior Dune. Then the mimosa gives a shinny golden cheerful accord. Not really my cup of tea, but the perfume is saved of the herbal green touch of the tea leaves.
The smell of the peony in the juice becomes the main note and mainly reigns above everything, just sharing its presence with the shy hint of green tea as soft smoky breathe.
It’s not overpowerful, is not oversweet. You find only balanced serenity, quietness and a delicious shy floral scent. Airy, close to skin fragrance. A peony fragrance for a brave man.
Eau de fleur de Magnolia.
Perfumist: Francis Kurkdjian.
Notes of bergamot, citron, heliotrope, spruce, champaca absolute, vetiver, musk.
"Magnolia" is a fantastic citrus floral. Unique and delightful.
Tending to linear, the perfume opens as it ends.
You can detect inmmediately the glorious radiance of the champaca flower watered in soft citrus notes, something quite unusual for a floral scent.
The whole juice develops airy and fragile, even refreshing, but it tends to a soft smoky side and bring me visual images of the tobacco pipe odour: lightly smoky
I couldn’t detect any spruce needles. Just a breath of vetiver on the base notes.
From the whole range this is my favourite.
Without being cloying the formula has its own character. Unique and a must-have for champaca lovers.
Eau de fleur de soié.
Perfumer: Jean Jacques.
Countains: bergamot, pink guava, mint leaves, silk flower, cherry and musk.
"Silk" is soft, watery, like the drewdrops, green, delicious, velvety. A nonchalant floral-fruity.
The formula centers itself in the silk blossom and the guava, a delightful exotic fruit.
Can’t detect cherry. Just freshness, a nice raw minty-like accord during the opening, the fruity guava note and a shy, light, white flower note, the silk flower, quite common in Asia.
Very shy, fresh, kind of ozonic, but unique regarding the blend of mint, flowers and fruits. An intimate and unique fragrance. My second choice of the whole range.
Eau de fleur de prunier.
Perfumist: Francis Kurkdjian.
Countains sakura blossom, mimosa, plum, akmond, white musk.
This is definitively the most minimalist and afemminate fragrance of the whole collection.
A refinated powdery-floral, delicate scent that brings me images of the plum blossom as a traditional symbol of spring in Japan.
This scent is both delicate and warm; the floral, fruity and almond notes are mixed artfully together in a way that makes Plum versatile and wearable, but still intriguing enough to garner constant compliments.
It is a very warm almondy floral. Cosy, soft and comfortable.
Perhaps the most suitable for cold days of the whole range.
Eau de fleur de yuzu.
Perfumer: Jean Jacques.
Countains green lime, grapefruit, yuzu, honeysuckle, petitgrain, jasmine and white musk.
It is tructured around the yuzu, an aromatic citrus fruit typical in Japan, China, Korea and Tibet which has a grapefruit-like dour and the flower has a petitgrain/orange blossom-like scent.
The fragrance is rather linear and only differs in character during the opening, in a quiet way with a soft flowery whisper in the background while the main notes are a sharp, zesty and intense citric potpourri.
After a few minutes, the perfume becomes stronger leaning towards the citric-green-flowery side. The floral nuances start to raise beautifully melting with the uplifting citrics but becoming altogether as a soliflower accord: fresh, dominant petitgrain with lime lying in a base of soft musk.
In the drydown the floral notes change slightly wih a very natural reminiscent of taking a walk through a jasmine garden in a warm summer day.
"Eau de fleur de yuzu" is fresh, zesty, clean yet sweet and so Japanese (meaning its softeness). Gorgeous.
It feels fresh and make you feel connected to nature although with a somewhat elegant approach thanks to the quality of its ingredients that makes it less casual and more classy. Although it has obvious similarities with other famous "orange blossom" based colognes, this new Kenzo´s creation smells to me much more pleasant and less soapy compared to other creations with the same flower note.
I particullary dislike petitgrain and I always felt it as a sticky, feminine accord even when it has been used in masculine or unisex fragances, but this time, the increase of the citric notes gives the balance in the whole pyramid to make it as a quite unisex accord. Even so, "Eau de fleur de yuzu" is, perhaps, too flowery for a man.
I own "Silk" & "Magnolia" and I do really enjoy them as a day fragrance. I got many compliments when I use them. If I feel adventurous I spray on me the Magnolia and I love inmmensely; when I feel nestle the Silk makes the work really well.
They have an average long lasting and they tend to be a soft, close to skin perfume.
This collection is sold as unisex colognes in Asia but in Europe are sold as women fragrances.
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