New Autumn arrivals!

With the new season, new fragrances up to come. It looks like the main trend this fall will be woods, woods and more woods. Where the flowers trend went?.

* Bvlgari will launch "Bvlgari Man" in September:

Perfumer: Alberto Morillas.

Notes of bergamot, lotus blossom, pear, violet leaves, white wood, benzoin, honey, cypriol, vetiver and ambrox.

By creating an absolutely innovative olfactory experience, precious and vibrant, the perfume is a white woody oriental fragrance that interprets a new ideal of masculinity. The intense woody accord, a traditional element in men’s perfumery, is now illuminated by radiant subtleties that capture the essence of natural purity.

According to the source, the vetiver was manipulated to remove the dark, woody, earthy part to leave the lightest and white, woody part.

It seems that It would be a classy fragrance, but it worths a sniff...


* Issey Miyake will launch "L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Noir Absolu", a new concentreé limited edition to the original fragrance.
Includes mandarin, cinnamon, nutmeg, cashmere wood and amber.
I hope that it will smell rather different than the original.
I am getting tired to have "apparently" different versions of the "classic" that after all, smell exactly the same, as it happens with "L'eau D'issey Woody" for instance.

* Kenzo also presents a new version of his gorgeous 1991′s "Kenzo Pour Homme" (now known as Kenzo Homme or KenzoHomme), but this time the only resembLAnces are the name and the bottle, as the juice seems to be totally different than the original.
Being signed by Olivier Polge may me wonder that it will be just as fantastily well done as "Power". Finger crossed!
It countains mint, basil, black pepper, rosemary, Atlas cedar and Haitian vetiver.

"Kenzo Homme Eau de Toilette Boisée / Woody" will be a woody aromatic fragrance, something that doen't ring my bell, but knowing Kenzo I expect something naturally beautiful.
I must add to this, dear readers, that I found in my last visit to the perfume counters at the airport as i was coming back from my holidays, two new perfumes from the japanese designer. Both men and women has the same name: "Kenzo".
The packaging is quite appealing with a colourful ethnic designs, but unfortunately, they didn´t have bottles to sample /see its design.
I wonder around Madrid's perfume shops, I asked kenzo's representative at "Corte Inglés" and no one knew what I was talking about, so I suppose they are airport-exclusive fragrances.
If anyone have more information, please share with us!

* Marc Jacobs will launch "Bang", a new fragrance for men.
Perfumer: Yann Vasnier.
It features black, pink and white peppercorns, primal masculine woods, elemi, benzoin, vetiver, white moss and patchouli.
I do like Marc Jacobs and I can't wait to smaple this one, although I always found his fragrances rather too light to my personal taste.

- It is modern and abstract, of a deceiving purity. Though, I wish it was 5 times more concentrate and tenacious!
It belongs to that particular type of perfumes that make a perfect blend with the the skin; you do not fell "perfumed" and it slowly evaporates from your pores. It is not aggressive but tender.-
Source:
http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2...fragrance.html


* Paul Smith will bring to us "Paul Smith Man 2" that it will be a totally different fragrance to the original "Man"

Notes of grapefruit, mandarin, nutmeg, cardamom and cinnamon, lavender, cashmere wood, cedar, sandalwood and white musk.

* Loewe will launch "7 de Loewe".

Notes feature neroli, muguet, rose, pepper, incense, Atlas cedar, musk, red apple and cedar.
I have to say that this one sounds just superb!
Loewe owns with "Jesús del Pozo" the crown being both, the best Spanish mainstream fragance falnkers so far.
...So I cannot wait...

* And finally, our "terrible enfants", French avant-garde Etat Libre d’Orange with their "Archives 69, Part 1". No information at the moment, so hopefully it will be a nice surprise.

Source:
http://www.nstperfume.com/new-perfumes-fragrances/

Flowers are for men.

I can't help to talk again about this new trend going on currently, based on "the new man" and the perfumer's interpretation of this new social specimen breaking boundaries in the masculine perfumery world.

I'd lie if I said that from my personal and particular point of view, all this has benefitted me on a certain level because now I could wear socially certain perfumes with confidence when before, I would not dare to do it.

Knowing that most of the masculine new floral perfumes are always based on the same boring concept, (sticky-powdery-definitively feminine), I start to wonder:
Why can I not wear a women's fragrance which actually does smell not even remotely as feminine as for example "Dior Homme" or "Kenzo Power"?
Meanwhile I'm still waiting for "the release", that one which will surprise me pleasantly, but no joy so far.
Iris, petit grain and violet. Is there not anything new under the sun, please?
I am getting to the point where I start to believe that perfumer's creativity is starting to vanish.

Summer is around the corner and I keep looking for the perfect fresh floral.
Being aware of the limited market in Spain,I decided to leave aside prejudices, go girly and try on some "hidden gems" created specifisally for women that, on a male skin, they just smell delightful.

Eau de Fleur de Silk by Kenzo.
An uncomplicated, light delightful fresh, clean floral scent.
Countains bergamot, pink guava, mint leaves,silk flower, cherry, musk, amber.

Black Orchid by Tom Ford.
A dark floral-gourmard scent.
Notes of black truffle, ylang ylang, bergamot, black currant, mandarine, jasmine, gardenia, lotus wood, black orchid, chocolate, patchouli, incense, vetiver, vanilla tears, balsam, sandalwood.

Eau de Fleur de Magnolia by Kenzo.
An uplifting citrus-flowery scent.
Notes of bergamot, citron, heliotrope, spruce, champaca absolute, vetiver, musk.

Eau De Givenchy by Givenchy.
This is a crisp, sheer, simple, almost clean floral, very sparkling and cheerful.
Notes of bergamot, spearmint, tagetes, greens, fruits, honeysuckle, jasmine, lily of the valley, tuberose, rose, cyclamen, orris, musk, cedarwood, sandalwood, and moss.

L'eau par Kenzo by Kenzo.
A gorgeous aquatic-youthful scent. My favourite for years.
Notes of mandarin, frosty water mint, reed, fressia, watermelon seeds, pink pepper, water lily, amarillys, blue cedar and infusion of vanilla pods.

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen.
An impressive oriental.
It has orange, mandarin orange, mint, neroli, bergamot, lemon, carnation, ginger, rhubarb, jasmine, cumin, celery seeds, rose, amber, musk and oakmoss.


Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel.
It is a really sophisticated, green, young, elegant, not boring, elusive, refreshing scent.
Countains sicilian lemon, bergamot, magnolia, neroli, white flowers and jasmine.

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker.
A discrete ambery floral tending to the patchouli side. It has resemblances to "Power" by Kenzo.
Countains nectarine and bergamot, rosewood, lavender, apple martini, white daffodil, orchid, white amber, cedar, woody notes, patchouli and white musk.

Aire Loco by Loewe.
It is a fresh, sheer, ozonic white floral-fruity perfume Despite the company.
Notes of bergamot, pink pepper, freesia, cardamom, ozonic accord, jasmin, passion fruit, petitgrain, rockrose, magnolia patchouli and virginian cedar.´


Diorissimo by Dior.
It is a beautiful and classic floral fragrance, based on a fresh, green, animalic and very subtle spicy interpretation of the lily of the valley scent. Great for anytime, anywhere, any season and any age.
Notes of bergamot, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, lilac, jasmine, amaryllis, boronia, sandalwood and civet.

Diorella by Dior.
A green chypre. Another Dior's classic.
It has lemon, green note, basil, bergamot, melon, honeysuckle, peach, jasmine, rose, carnation, cyclamen, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, patchouli.

Esencia de duende by Jesús del Pozo.
An aquatic fresh yet warm fragrance.
Notes of coriander, mandarin, orange, grapefruit, bergamot, jasmine, hiacynth, lily of the valley, lotus, rose, sandalwood, cedar and mahogany.

Escape a Portofino by Dior.
It is a blindingly bright perfume with a powerful, invigorating citrus accent.
Countains bergamot, lemon verbena, petit grain, orange blossom, juniper berries, cedar, cypress, galbanum, caraway and musk.

A Scent by Issey Miyake.
A very fresh, green and yet elegant floral scent.
It has amalfi lemon, lemon verbena, hyacinth, jasmin, cedar and galbanum.

#3 by Comme des Garçons.
The scent of an alien flower. A real chyphre-woody floral.
Notes of mandarin, magnolia leaf, basil, gingko leaf, blackcurrant leaf, red pepper, angelica, cardamom, mate, freesia, jasmine, champaca flower, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, birch, olibanum, amber.

Kashaya by Kenzo.
A sadly "very hard to find" gorgeous, gentle oriental. Graceful woody, soft yet characteristic perfume for a hunting night.
Notes of tangerine, bergamot, pineapple, anise, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, narcissus, tuberose, orchid, hyacinth, rose, lily, carnation, sandalwood, amber, white musk, benzoin and cedar.

Nilang by Lalique.
It is another "hard to find" unique aquatic, bitter-floral-oriental scent with a sensual and gourmand edge.
Countains water jasmine, freesia, water lily and narcissus, blueberry, lotus, sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla and praline.

Miroir des secrets by Thierry Mugler.
It is a bright, floral aldehyde fragrance.
Countains aldehydes, patchouli and musk.

She Wood by DSQUARED².
A juxtapose betwwen aquatic and woody agaisnt powdery floral notes. Soft, warm and deep. A weird yet enjoyable scent.
Countains lemon, aquatic notes, neroli, jasmine, violet, heliotrope, musk, cedar, vetiver and amber.

Omnia Green Jade by Bvlgari.
A clean, green floral aquatic. This perfume is soft ethereal and refreshing but dries down into as powdery scent.
It has green mandarin, spring water, white peony, pear blossom, jasmine, pistachio, blond wood and musk.

Parfum D'ete by Kenzo.
It is a fresh yet powerful, green floral perfume.
Countains jasmin, hyacinth, lily of the valley and lotus.

Calyx by Prescriptives.
A sensory therapy. Bright and vivacious. Wet, fresh and fruity-herbal elixir.
Notes of bergamot, apricot, passionfruit, mint, orange, cassia, mango, cyclamen, lily, melon, freesia, orris root, jasmine, neroli, marigold, lily of the valley, rose, musk, oakmoss, raspberry and cedar.

Eau des Merveilles by Hermès.
A real masterpiece. Woody, dry, spicy yet zesty and deliciously salty.
It has lemon, orange, elemi, pink pepper, vetiver, oak, cedar, ambergris.

Jasmin et cigarette by ETAT.
Smoky floral. Pity the longevity is so mediocre.
Notes of Jasmin Absolut, tobacco, apricot, tonka, hay, cedar, amber and Musk.

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens.
A dark, mysterioyus floral scent. A tuberose glory.
It eatures coconut, tuberose, tonka bean, almond, lemon blossom, mandarin, orange, musk, chinese osmanthus, heliotrope and myrrh.

Do son by Diptyque.
It is a beautiful white floral fragrance, fresh, natural and enchanting.
It is like finding an abandoned garden, that nobody takes care of.
Notes of african orange flower, rose, tuberose, benzoin, iris and musk.

Anais Anais by Cacharel.
Despiste it is definitively an ultra-feminine fresh, romantic bouquet of flowers, it actually smells damm hot in a male.
Coutains bergamot, transparent orange blossom, lavender, galbanum, black currant, hyacinth, honeysuckle, tuberose, carnation, grenade blossom, iris, yland-ylang, white lily, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, orris root, leather, sandalowood, amber, patchouli, msuk, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar and incense.

Photo-art courtey of dragoncello64
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.

Fat Electrician. Etat libre d´orange

Perfumer: Antoine Maisondieu.
Notes of white vetiver, olive leaf, metal note, opoponax, vanilla and mhyrr.

Etat libre D'orange launch a new perfume for men, inspired by the spirit of the film "midninght cowboy".

"Fat electrician" opens with a dry yet sweet vetiver, and then a synthetic metallic-sour sweet accord.
The vetiver note in the juice can be calificated as disturbing, not disgusting though, extremely arid, manipulated in an industrial way.
Highly fake, but retro-ike in the other hand.

The fragrance develops with the same concentrated aura, sometimes resinous, salty, and raw, (but not aquatic or marine).
The scent juxtaposes the dry, sweet-sour touch of the manipulated vetiver with the most sweeter, balsamic smokiness representation of opoponax and myrrh and changes from silver to green, then salty and then deep sweet.

"Fat electrician" dances between the natural and the synthetic, but is a well blended perfume, and even it is quite linear, it has a distinctive character: an arid, salty green presence that I love to bits.
An odd yet captivatibg green perfume.
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.

Tom of Finland. Etat libre D'orange.

Tom of Finland. Etat libre D'orange.


Perfumist: Antoine Lie.

Notes: aldehydes, lemon, cypress, pine, safraleine, pepper, cypress, galbanum, geranium leaves, vanilla, tonka, iris, vetiver, styrax pyrogene, suede, musk, ambergris.

It could be the “Vraie Blonde” version for the male.
Despiste the previous “avant garde” launches, (fantastic recreations by my taste), ELDO now reaches a new challenge: create a perfume for the mainstream without losing the nickname of "enfant terrible". And, honestly, they raise the topic, with a good result.

The packaging is quite erotic orientated, so, "Tom of Finland" can be easily categorized as a gay perfume, or even as a promiscuous perfume for any sexuality, but the reality is that, beyond the controversial perception of the scent, it is, predominantly abstractly elegant, even a bit of the "childish" in there.
This is difficult to express with words.
You have to wear it to find out for yourself!.

TOF opens with loads of aldehydes.
Oh, I do love aldehydes!; all this synthetic head on are just simply delightful.
Instant dejá vú of "Vrai Blonde" or "Miroir des secrets". But the aldehydes goes here goes beyond. The companion of lemon makes it a really clean ozone-like note with a touch of vanilla. Lovely.

Aldehydes combined with overdoses notes of iris, resinous pine & cypress brings a metrosexual twist of femininity against a masculine atmosphere.
Makes you wonder: -Oh, no. Not another overly feminine cologne for a man-.
But the iris fades away and the combination start to smell like skai, or latex, kind of plasticky, but not in an industrial, synthetic way.
The saffraline gives a metallic like accord combined with the geranium leaves. Just a hint.

The juice develops in the heart aldelhydeic + plasticky. Sometimes reminds me a clean "Secretion magnifiques" + leather. Strange.
The iris comes back and stays.
Powdery but discreet, till the drydown.
The styrax just smells like tar, and the scents come rather musky, with light notes of leather, in a "frozen" watery way like "Rien". Still clean. Not animalistic.
The iris fades giving a discreet touch of baby powder on the drydown.

The idea and description is quite psychedelic but the result is frankly gorgeous.
Maybe the closest description will be an innocent fragrance that plays at times with the ambiguity, but fades into pleasant and clean, masculine, but innocent perfume.

The scent develops close to skin, but the longevity is quite good.
Copyright © 2009. All rights reserved.

Hinoki by Monocle & Comme des Garçons.

Perfumer: Antoine Maisondieu.

Notes of cypress, turpentine, camphor, cedar, thyme, pine, Georgian wood, frankincense, moss and vetiver.

It seems that Comme des Garçons's reputation of "enfant terrible" has reflected positively on itself in the perfume industry.
This is the second time that the Japanese designer signs its own perfume in collaboration with "Etat Libre D'orange" persumist groupie, the first time that the company designs a scent for another, two other up to come for an UK based brand and formal gossip about collaborate with H&M with a clothing collection and a unisex cologne for the filial.


Hinoki takes its name from the Hinoki cypress, a tree that only grows in Japan and is the preferred wood for building palaces, temples, shrines and the finest wooden soaking baths. It was inspired by a visit to Tawaraya, a famous three-centuries-old traditional Japanese inn located in Kyoto.

Basicly this is a deep rich, woody scent with hints of smoky incenses.
It has a fab recreation; a deja-vú of steamed, heated, woody environments of saunas and baths actually: there's an asian legendary wooden bath called "hinoki ofuro", in outside open spaces with hot water in chilly locations. To put you in the scene, the closest panorama here in Europe are the famous scandinavian baths in the forest. So, basicly ,this is what's all about; a well constructed representation that captures magnificently the scent of an outdoor wodden bath.

It starts intoxicating: warm woods sorrounded by the resinous tupertine( the gum pine tree) and the odd note of camphor( white waxy resinous with strong medicinal aroma).
Then just a lovely smoky mix of heady frankincense that blends with sharp notes of thyme, cedar and balanced cold notes of moss.
There's a shy reminiscence of charcoal going on through it that, for me, could be the key of why this perfume is a well done olfative image of a hot woody sauna.
It is a great scent for wood lovers.

The longlasting is monster. Up to 10 hours in my skin.

I don't particulary love woody colognes but I have to admmit that this launch is well balanced, creative, nostalgic in a nice way and addictive.
Give a try.
Copyright © 2008 . All rigths reserved.

ELDO lands in Spain through the coolest shop in Valencia.

I'm glad to inform all you that Etat Libre D'orange has landed in the spanish market through the fantastic Valencian shop "Linda vuela a Rio".

You can contact them any time for further info. They will ship everywhere in the country...

More info could be uptdated soon!.

LINDA VUELA A RIO
c/ Gran Via Marques del Turia n°31
Tél : 963 517 746 /linda@lindavuelaario.com

Valencia, Spain.

(Updated) Tom Of Finland launch / ELDO lands In Spain.

Perfumist: Antoine Lie.

includes notes of aldehydes, lemon, birch leaves, pine, blood note, safraline, metallic chrome notes, pepper, cypress, galbanum, geranium, vanilla, tonka bean, iris root, vetiver, styrax pyrogene,suede, musk, ambergris.

“THE WATER SLIPS
OVER HIM AS IF SLIDING
DOWN A MARBLE ROCK,
SINKING INTO
THE GROOVES OF HIS
MUSCLES, VANISHING
INTO HIS PORES.”.

I have been expecting this launch for nearly 4 months, and I can’t stand the wait: no longer: I had big expectations a bout this perfume and It didn’t dissapointed me at all.
The first ELDO perfume created for men it’s as unique as the trademark.
The whole formula is a interpretation of the famous finish artist Touko Laaksonen, (father of the famous "Tom of Finland" erotic cartoon drawings): metal, leather, sensuality, beauty and radiance.

Despiste of the erotic resemblances the fragrance is an interpretation of the masculinity and the freshness.

Antoine Lie decided that the soul of the fragrance had to smell like "a guy coming out of a shower. He's clean, but not fragranced. And he puts on leather pants.".

Straight, gay, those two words hasn’t any connotation here.

You will have to be above 18 years old to buy it, as the packaging will have 8 numerated limited edition sexual orientated drawings.

Isn't paradoxical?. The puzzle is here and I love it!. You will have to wear a large overcoat to buy the fragrance as well just to keep it hidden underneath.....

Also we are glad to announce that ELDO has just land in Spain, introducing their whole range availabe at:

LINDA VUELA A RIO
c/ Gran Via Marques del Turia n°31
Tél : (0034) 963 517 746
Valencia, Spain.

New shop up to come based Murcia next...

Tom of Finland International © Tom of Finland Foundation 2008

Copyright © 2008. All rigths reserved.

Rien. Etat libre D'Orange.

Perfumer: Antoine Lie.

Countains: aldehydes, rose, leather, iris, pepper, cumin, oakmoss, cistus, patchouli.

Wow!: Rien isn't "rien" at all. It's a rich, powerful, gothic-dark, distinctive fragrance. Smoky, elegant, mysterious.
What a creation!

This perfume starts with a soft, warm balsamic leather note.( Hints of the floral: adelhydes, rose and iris all together).
It is dark, incisive yet cold: iced, smoky leather in a cold, wet cave with musky stones. Great!.
The incense arrives hand in hand with the leather; not a mainstream leather but dense, animalistic. The cistus make its own presence now as the sweaty cumin.
The iris note increases and I can detect a hint of powdery pepper in the background, while the accords get smoky and kind of gratefully mineral, graphite-like.
The drydown is mostly incense and leather with smoke accords and soft patchouli and powdery iris.

This juice may be an interesting choice for all leather & spice lovers.
Madly superpowerful sillage and longevity. Use it with caution!.

http://www.etatlibredorange.com/english/index.html

Enquiries: info@etatlibredorange.com

Picture courtesy by Etat libre D'Orange.

Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

Vraie Blonde. Etat libre D'Orange

Perfumer: Antoine Maisondieu.

Notes of of aldehydes, champagne, rose, peach, white pepper, myrrh, patchouli and suede.

Fake, insincere: reminiscents of a shemale, synthetic wigs, cheap makeup, vinyl, lipstick, clean white skin exuding pheromones when making love in a motel. Poliester, lamé, a glass of cava, plastic accesories.
Hard to tell but very easy to remember.All this is about Real Blonde.

To my nose this spectacular perfume recreates a parody of the "silly blonde". The present blonde, on Antoine’s representation, is a platinum temptation, a woman, surrounded by riches and luxury facing the mediocre. But the unsuccessful is up to come...

It starts sharp and strongly aldehydelic: aldehydes blending with powerful rose that mixes instantly with the bubbly sour-sweet accord of the champagne, (incredible, really well done), a sharpness that tickles the nose in an enjoyable way.
The bubbly, sparkling cava note goes along the life of the perfume, and gives way to sweet peach, leathery notes and the plastic sweetness of myrrh and suede notes.
There is no perceivable pepper note, maybe just a breath of patchouli.

The result is quite clever and niche-finding. Sometimes smells like makeup, sometimes like a wig, sometimes reminds me of something luxurious and then I touch the ground and find myself in a dark red velvet motel room, that contains within, previous pieces of lives, dreams, miseries, and hopes. An olfactory recreation of an impostor neo Marilyn going through her own heavens and hells. Facing her success and her failure.

It's highly nostalgic in a precise way. It's rather subtle and there's something on it that brings to me, sexy images (no explicit sexual ones) that puzzle me.
Still sniffing and I want to resolve the riddle. Sooner or later, I will get there.
http://www.etatlibredorange.com/english/index.html
Enquiries: info@etatlibredorange.com
Picture courtesy by Etat libre D'Orange.
Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

Jasmin et cigarette. Etat libre D'Orange

Perfumist: Antoine Maisondieu.

Countains: Jasmin absolut, tobacco, apricot, tonka, hay, cedar, amber, musk.

This fragrance is just unique without being weird.
It has the most magnificent combination of tobacco and jasmin flower I ever smelled before.
It opens clean and slightly synthetic: the main notes are the jasmin absolú with soft clean nearly tobacco scented industrial freshener.
There’s a hint of dry accord floating, (ghostly hay herb for sure), a clever note in the composition that helps the emerging of the tobacco, slightly smoky. Just a hint.
The curcuma note is getting more noticeable giving a cold feeling of the composition, and embracing the tobacco accord, making it very fresh unsmoked cigarette, as the scent you get when you open a pack of fags. I can detect some sweetness of apricot, very shy hint.
In the drydown the jasmin remains in a second place, with amber, smoky and musky cedar.
It’s a minimal formula in here, not very complex, but very well constructed and with a decent staying power.
As all the Etat Libre D’orange, is, a perfectly situable cologne for men/women.
The perfume is more close-to-skin, subtle and gentle.
It’s my second on the top list of flowery perfume.
Again, congratulations Etat libre D’0range Team. Your creations are just wonderful.

http://www.etatlibredorange.com/english/index.html

Enquiries: info@etatlibredorange.com

Picture courtesy by Etat libre D'Orange. Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

Charogne. Etat libre D'orange.

Perfumist: Shyamala Maisondieu.

Countains: bergamot, pink pepper, leather, ginger, lily, ylang ylang, jasmine, incense, vanilla, ambrette and animalic notes.


This perfume reaches an untouchable taboo. A full floral fragrance for men.

It's rich floral, as dark, as It has distinctive animalistic notes, leather notes and a rising note of natural vanilla.

The perfume starts light with ginger and bergamot. The lily can be detect inmediately. There's also a halo of balsamic accord on it.
The juice goes progessively dark with jasmin mixed with the lily and the incorporation of a smoky leather and castoreum. It's without the shadow of the doubt, stinky, in an realistic animal way, but it's also marvellously hypnotic, addictive, in a perverse way..
The perfume ends in a blend of a shy hint of jasmin flower with smoky incense, animalistic notes, creamy vanilla (that get more and more noticiable), and a musty musk notes.
I detest vanilla in perfumes, but in this one, It just make sense, It has to be there.
Whitout this accord, the fragrance probably could be a young brother of "Vierges et Toreros", very manly. The vanilla touch gives the perfume an unisex twist.


I'm really dissapointed with the lasting power, as is just medicocre. Really bad.
After few hours, it's gone off my skin, as other fantastic launch "Jasmin et cigarretes", but that's another history...
Pity, if the vanilla note was more subtle and the sillage stronger, I'd wore it.

http://www.etatlibredorange.com/english/index.htmlEnquiries: info@etatlibredorange.com

Picture courtesy by Etat libre D'Orange. Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

Vierges et Toreros. Etat libre D'orange

Perfumers: Antoine Lie & Antonie Maisondieu.


Countains: bergamot, pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, tuberose, sweat accord, ylang, blood note, leather, dust accord, animalic base, costus, patchouli, and vetiver..


A second must-have choice from the niche new french company. A clever and well made balance between synthetic and real approachable accords.

I can see the link between virgins and bullfighters.
Bullfighters are very superstitious, and all of them kneel down in a chapel before an image of the Virgin Mary to pray before a “corrida”. T
he major Virgin of the toreros is in Seville, where the “Maestranza” bullring is located; that plaza de toros is the only one outside Madrid where bullfighters can receive la alternativa”, the diploma that promotes them to the rank of matador. The Virgin of the toreros in Seville is the “Virgen de la Macarena”...
Does the perfume conjure any images of kneeling bullfighters?. It certainly does.
If you have been into the culture of bullfighting, here in Spain, you'll understand the complexity of this wonderful perfume.

Well, it reflects the excited atmosphere on a bullfight arena, for me. Just a mental picture based on the name and the smell of the juice.In Spain, when the bullfighter, “matador” or “torero”, (whatever want you to call him), won against the beast, the female public with euphoria, used to throw him tuberosas as a sign of respect, emotion and in a flirty way too, a long time ago.

The perfume is based in dirty notes, animalistic and, as the company says it's a tuberosa-based fragrance for the male.You can detect the tuberosa all the way through. it's the main note surrounded by the others.It's highly masculine still.
Not very spicy, not citric (don't get the bergamot at all). The composition starts with a real burst of cardamom, nutmeg and idyllic tuberosa.
Warm and dry, the spices fades away and leave the flower notes alone in, waiting to blend with a shy synthetic blood accord, (sufficiently perceivable that you can almost taste the blood in your mouth), velvety ylang-ylang and then pure leather.
A hint of pathouli can start to be detected too and the sweat accord, but not nasty, It's more sexual, almost kinky in fact. It's raw leather, sweat, and dust; like the smell of the air transporting the smell of treated skin bags hanging on the walls into the Bazaar on Marrakech, and the smell of the locals trying to sell you stuff, in a flirty cheeky way (If you have been there, you'll get the picture). A fascinating recreation.

Dusty, flowery atmosphere, encounters the animalistic notes now, representing the bull.Costus here is extremely prominent and the sebum of a sweaty, sexy, masculine “macho” fighting against the animal remains, as the note of dust and blood that represent the arena fight, the dust around the air when both fight against each other and the blood falling on the arena floor, when the “matador” finishes his job killing the animal.

What a masterpiece. Even I found the bullfight a cruelty this perfume leave me spechless. I never liked tuberosa but know I'm addicted. It's really masculine; very, very manly.
If seduction had a smell this would be it.

http://www.etatlibredorange.com/english/index.html
Enquiries: info@etatlibredorange.com
Picture courtesy by Etat libre D'Orange. Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

Secretions Magnifiques. Etat libre D'orange.

Perfumist: Antoine Lie.

Includes iodé accord (Azurone molecules and fucus kempt) adrenaline accord (sweat), blood accord, milk accord, iris, coconut, sandalwood and opoponax.

Put in your mind a women, pearly woman with lovely, long wavy hair, laying in a inmmaculate bed with satin sheets. She's naked. There's summer, the breezze of the ocean get in through the window, and that breeze just covers slightly her human body, mixing with the aroma of her shower gel and some body lotion.

She lays but her legs are wide open!. There's a smell here of nudity and puberscense. That is "Secretions Magnifiques".

This fragance start so aldehydeic, clean, so pure that blowns you away. Very aquatic too, like a pool with a lot chloorine, just clean, asepthic, and neutral, but suddenly the notes itself make you dive in something more organic, like a swamp in a forest.

The fucus note emerges so sharp that nearly hurts when you sniff. I know very well the fucus smell as I grown up next to the beach:

it's a group of brown algae, used in herbolist normally,that hasn't a obvious smell when collected fresh, but when treated with alcohols, smells green, medicinal and very metallic and organic like, not a lovely smell I have to be honest, but not vile too.

Well, that's how this perfume smell like:something green metallic, kind of medicinal,but the initial splash ozonic aquatic reamrked by the azurone,goes all over the olfatory experience, and something really clean on the background, SOMETHING SO PURE.

The blood accord mixed nicely with the fucus giving a more sharper metallic twist, and the iris and coconut note shows in the dry down very subtle, appearing like a shy note of peachy skin surrounding it all. A feminine touch, I must say. I suppose it is beacuse of the blend of these two and the milk note, it's creamy but clean.

I know now. I don't know if you, reader, know this shower gel, the name is Lactovit. The milky base smell like this, creamy clean soap, like a fresh young woman skin after a bath with this shower gel.

The conclusion is, despiste what you could spect, this fragance is just clean yet sharp, yet sexual but not dirty.

It's very marine, yes, very metallic, quiet indeed, but it's addictive.

I don't really think it's a wearable frag, but I think I'll give a try to see reactions.

I think this perfume is pure juxtapose, a master piece:

something as cleaner that hurts mixed with the most medicinal,marine, metallic note you ever imagine.

It's sex in a bottle, but subtle sex. If seduction has a smell, It would smell like this. An olfatory experience for sure.

http://www.etatlibredorange.com/english/index.html
Enquiries: info@etatlibredorange.com

Picture courtesy by Etat libre D'orange. Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.