Aqua Fahrenheit. Dior

Perfumer: Francois Demachy.
Notes of mandarin, grapefruit, violet, spearmint, basil, Haitian vetiver and leather.

"Fahrenheit" launched in 1988, is one of the most popular men's fragrances now-a-days. After many variations on this theme, including intensive "Fahrenheit Absolute" from 2009, the house of Dior announces this summer a new fiery refreshment. "Aqua Fahrenheit" is the new fragrance, an explosive combination that symbolizes the element of water that gradually takes on the characteristics of fire.

"Aqua Fahrenheit" opens enough sparkling and zesty with a combination of the mandarin and the grapefruit to be considerated as an aquatic perfume on its early stage, but immediately turns into a linear fragrance tending to the floral-oriental side.
In the opening this perfume shares a lot of similitaries with the original "Fahrenheit" where I found the same petrol-like note, that fades away quickly.

After 5-10 min of application the mint comes to live accompained with a violet touch, very similar to the "He Wood wet woods" floral note without the powdery, salty and industrial fresh nuances and the same dark smoky vetiver from "Tom Ford Grey Vetiver" and stays like this mostly till the end of the perfume.

"Aqua" ends serene, smokey-fresh and smooth with the violet, the vetiver plus a light, soft leather / suede note.

Even if it has soft, aquatic touches I wouldn't describe it an "average" aquatic, because it has a deep, strong personality. It is true that it shares a similar spirit with the original but in some ways it smells wonderfully different, more modern and it is enough versatile to be used all year round.

I really think every man should own at least one version of "Fahrenheit". For me, this is my second favourite. Then, "Fahrenheit 32".
The longevity and projection are really good.
Copyright © 2011 . All rigths reserved

Men florals for this summer.

I have already recommended to you some female perfumes that would work nicely on a man.
Now it is time for the actual masculine/ unisex florals suitable for summer time.

He Wood by DSQUARED².
An addictive aquatic-floral-woody fragrance.
Notes of white fir, ozonic accord, vegetal amber, musk, aquatic notes, violet blossoms and leves, vetiver and cedarwwod.

Lily by Comme des Garçons.
Adorable unisex floral. Bad long lasting though.
Countains lily of the valley, freesia, green syringa (lilac tree leaves)and dog rose buds.

Splash Rain by Marc Jacobs.
It is an unisex light floral woody musk fragrance.
Notes of clementine, cypress, wild strawberry, sunflower, passion flower, orchid, teak wood, amber, musk and oakmoss.

Story by Paul Smith.
An intense green floral perfume.
Notes of grapefruit, bergamot, green ivy, jasmine, green rose, musks, vetiver, mineral amber and cedarwood.

L'eau Bleue Fraiche by Issey Miyake.
An aquatic-floral-musky airy fragrance.
Countains notes of bergamot, mint, rosemary, may rose, maté, pink pepper, white patchouli, musk.

Aqua Marine by Bvlgary.
An uplfting citrus-marine-floral scent.
Notes of neroli bigarade, grapefruit, sap, posidonia kelp, rosemary flower, white cedar, amber.

Fahrenheit 32 by Dior.
A weird warm-cold oriental.
Notes of orange blossom, iris, rose, violet, vetiver and vanilla.

Geranium leaf by Malin + Goezt.
An uplifting fresh green floral.
Notes of green apple, cyclamen, tiger lilly, geranium leaf, coriander and musk.

Kenzo Power Cologne by Kenzo.
A gorgeous citrusy-balsamic-floral perfume.
Include notes of bergamot, amalfi lemon, cardamom, lemon verbena, freesia, sichuan pepper, coriander, tolu balm, geranium, cedar and vetiver.

Guerrilla 2 by Comme des Garçons.
An intense spicy-floral.
Countains notes of bergamot, pink pepper, ginger, red chili pepper, curcuma (turmeric root), raspberry, tuberose, vetiver, cedar and musk.

Paul Smith Man by Paul Smith.
A fresher version of "Dior Homme".
It has yuzu, bergamot, anise blossom, incense, patchouli, cardamom, Iris, Violet, Tonka Bean.

L'eau D'Issey Summer 2010.
A reinterpretation of the original D'issey with soft ambery floral undertones.
Notes of mandarin, yuzu, sage flower, cardamom, vetiver and amber.

Adventure Quasar by Jesús del Pozo.
A fantastic aromatic chyphre.
Countains japanese Yuzu, chinese Kumquat, brazilian Rain Tree (mimosa), kharismai, tropical Heart (fresh wet soil accord), lavender, Sage, living Bombay Gin accord, geranium leaves, fig wood, jacaranda, cedarwood, oakmoss, flax Seed Oil, musk.

Zen for men by Sisheido.
A great fruity floral scent.
Notes of kumquat, bergamot, kinkan, violet, nashi pear, rhododendron, nutmeg, leather, patchouli, agarwood and musk.

London by Burberry.
A beutifuly done spicy floral.
Countains violet leaf, lavender, bergamot and black pepper, mimosa, Port wine accord, leather, opoponax, tobacco leaf, guaiac wood and oakmoss.

Photo-art courtey of dragoncello64
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.

Flowers are for men.

I can't help to talk again about this new trend going on currently, based on "the new man" and the perfumer's interpretation of this new social specimen breaking boundaries in the masculine perfumery world.

I'd lie if I said that from my personal and particular point of view, all this has benefitted me on a certain level because now I could wear socially certain perfumes with confidence when before, I would not dare to do it.

Knowing that most of the masculine new floral perfumes are always based on the same boring concept, (sticky-powdery-definitively feminine), I start to wonder:
Why can I not wear a women's fragrance which actually does smell not even remotely as feminine as for example "Dior Homme" or "Kenzo Power"?
Meanwhile I'm still waiting for "the release", that one which will surprise me pleasantly, but no joy so far.
Iris, petit grain and violet. Is there not anything new under the sun, please?
I am getting to the point where I start to believe that perfumer's creativity is starting to vanish.

Summer is around the corner and I keep looking for the perfect fresh floral.
Being aware of the limited market in Spain,I decided to leave aside prejudices, go girly and try on some "hidden gems" created specifisally for women that, on a male skin, they just smell delightful.

Eau de Fleur de Silk by Kenzo.
An uncomplicated, light delightful fresh, clean floral scent.
Countains bergamot, pink guava, mint leaves,silk flower, cherry, musk, amber.

Black Orchid by Tom Ford.
A dark floral-gourmard scent.
Notes of black truffle, ylang ylang, bergamot, black currant, mandarine, jasmine, gardenia, lotus wood, black orchid, chocolate, patchouli, incense, vetiver, vanilla tears, balsam, sandalwood.

Eau de Fleur de Magnolia by Kenzo.
An uplifting citrus-flowery scent.
Notes of bergamot, citron, heliotrope, spruce, champaca absolute, vetiver, musk.

Eau De Givenchy by Givenchy.
This is a crisp, sheer, simple, almost clean floral, very sparkling and cheerful.
Notes of bergamot, spearmint, tagetes, greens, fruits, honeysuckle, jasmine, lily of the valley, tuberose, rose, cyclamen, orris, musk, cedarwood, sandalwood, and moss.

L'eau par Kenzo by Kenzo.
A gorgeous aquatic-youthful scent. My favourite for years.
Notes of mandarin, frosty water mint, reed, fressia, watermelon seeds, pink pepper, water lily, amarillys, blue cedar and infusion of vanilla pods.

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen.
An impressive oriental.
It has orange, mandarin orange, mint, neroli, bergamot, lemon, carnation, ginger, rhubarb, jasmine, cumin, celery seeds, rose, amber, musk and oakmoss.


Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel.
It is a really sophisticated, green, young, elegant, not boring, elusive, refreshing scent.
Countains sicilian lemon, bergamot, magnolia, neroli, white flowers and jasmine.

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker.
A discrete ambery floral tending to the patchouli side. It has resemblances to "Power" by Kenzo.
Countains nectarine and bergamot, rosewood, lavender, apple martini, white daffodil, orchid, white amber, cedar, woody notes, patchouli and white musk.

Aire Loco by Loewe.
It is a fresh, sheer, ozonic white floral-fruity perfume Despite the company.
Notes of bergamot, pink pepper, freesia, cardamom, ozonic accord, jasmin, passion fruit, petitgrain, rockrose, magnolia patchouli and virginian cedar.´


Diorissimo by Dior.
It is a beautiful and classic floral fragrance, based on a fresh, green, animalic and very subtle spicy interpretation of the lily of the valley scent. Great for anytime, anywhere, any season and any age.
Notes of bergamot, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, lilac, jasmine, amaryllis, boronia, sandalwood and civet.

Diorella by Dior.
A green chypre. Another Dior's classic.
It has lemon, green note, basil, bergamot, melon, honeysuckle, peach, jasmine, rose, carnation, cyclamen, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, patchouli.

Esencia de duende by Jesús del Pozo.
An aquatic fresh yet warm fragrance.
Notes of coriander, mandarin, orange, grapefruit, bergamot, jasmine, hiacynth, lily of the valley, lotus, rose, sandalwood, cedar and mahogany.

Escape a Portofino by Dior.
It is a blindingly bright perfume with a powerful, invigorating citrus accent.
Countains bergamot, lemon verbena, petit grain, orange blossom, juniper berries, cedar, cypress, galbanum, caraway and musk.

A Scent by Issey Miyake.
A very fresh, green and yet elegant floral scent.
It has amalfi lemon, lemon verbena, hyacinth, jasmin, cedar and galbanum.

#3 by Comme des Garçons.
The scent of an alien flower. A real chyphre-woody floral.
Notes of mandarin, magnolia leaf, basil, gingko leaf, blackcurrant leaf, red pepper, angelica, cardamom, mate, freesia, jasmine, champaca flower, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, birch, olibanum, amber.

Kashaya by Kenzo.
A sadly "very hard to find" gorgeous, gentle oriental. Graceful woody, soft yet characteristic perfume for a hunting night.
Notes of tangerine, bergamot, pineapple, anise, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, narcissus, tuberose, orchid, hyacinth, rose, lily, carnation, sandalwood, amber, white musk, benzoin and cedar.

Nilang by Lalique.
It is another "hard to find" unique aquatic, bitter-floral-oriental scent with a sensual and gourmand edge.
Countains water jasmine, freesia, water lily and narcissus, blueberry, lotus, sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla and praline.

Miroir des secrets by Thierry Mugler.
It is a bright, floral aldehyde fragrance.
Countains aldehydes, patchouli and musk.

She Wood by DSQUARED².
A juxtapose betwwen aquatic and woody agaisnt powdery floral notes. Soft, warm and deep. A weird yet enjoyable scent.
Countains lemon, aquatic notes, neroli, jasmine, violet, heliotrope, musk, cedar, vetiver and amber.

Omnia Green Jade by Bvlgari.
A clean, green floral aquatic. This perfume is soft ethereal and refreshing but dries down into as powdery scent.
It has green mandarin, spring water, white peony, pear blossom, jasmine, pistachio, blond wood and musk.

Parfum D'ete by Kenzo.
It is a fresh yet powerful, green floral perfume.
Countains jasmin, hyacinth, lily of the valley and lotus.

Calyx by Prescriptives.
A sensory therapy. Bright and vivacious. Wet, fresh and fruity-herbal elixir.
Notes of bergamot, apricot, passionfruit, mint, orange, cassia, mango, cyclamen, lily, melon, freesia, orris root, jasmine, neroli, marigold, lily of the valley, rose, musk, oakmoss, raspberry and cedar.

Eau des Merveilles by Hermès.
A real masterpiece. Woody, dry, spicy yet zesty and deliciously salty.
It has lemon, orange, elemi, pink pepper, vetiver, oak, cedar, ambergris.

Jasmin et cigarette by ETAT.
Smoky floral. Pity the longevity is so mediocre.
Notes of Jasmin Absolut, tobacco, apricot, tonka, hay, cedar, amber and Musk.

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens.
A dark, mysterioyus floral scent. A tuberose glory.
It eatures coconut, tuberose, tonka bean, almond, lemon blossom, mandarin, orange, musk, chinese osmanthus, heliotrope and myrrh.

Do son by Diptyque.
It is a beautiful white floral fragrance, fresh, natural and enchanting.
It is like finding an abandoned garden, that nobody takes care of.
Notes of african orange flower, rose, tuberose, benzoin, iris and musk.

Anais Anais by Cacharel.
Despiste it is definitively an ultra-feminine fresh, romantic bouquet of flowers, it actually smells damm hot in a male.
Coutains bergamot, transparent orange blossom, lavender, galbanum, black currant, hyacinth, honeysuckle, tuberose, carnation, grenade blossom, iris, yland-ylang, white lily, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, orris root, leather, sandalowood, amber, patchouli, msuk, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar and incense.

Photo-art courtey of dragoncello64
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.

Fahrenheit Absolute. Dior

Perfumer: Unknown.
Notes of violet, carnation, nutmeg, myrrh, leather, amber, guaiac wood, incense and oud.

For the 21st birthday of the original "Fahrenheit" fragrance, Dior introduces its new reformulation, "Fahrenheit Absolute", more intense and darker than the original.

"Absolute" begins just hot & fiery.
Intoxicating bitter woods with moroccan spices, similar hot dry spicy top notes as "CDG Harissa".

Then the same violet leaf as the original Fahrenheit but much softer.
I can smell the oudh faintly mixed in with incense and myrrh.

The drydown has definately got the myrrh more emphasized with it's signature dry woody smell.
It develops sweet and soft in the heart, (very to my taste) not as original but the myrrh, the incense and mossy elements put the juice in its own place.
The leather appears as a real punch on the drydown. Agressive sticky sweet and overdosed with the fiery undernotes and woods.

On my skin " Absolute" calms down in a candy perfume with a powdery mossy drydown.
Kind of too messy to my taste.

"Fahrenheit absolute" doesn't reinvent any new concept, but it will claim its own position on the market and for sure, will be admired & followed for a vast group of public.
It takes the best from the original creation and the best from the sweet oriental woody notes that are around in the male perfume market for several years. Even though not really my coup of tea. I will stand on the original so far.
Copyright © 2009 . All rigths reserved

Dior Homme Sport & Dior Homme Intense. Dior.

Dior Homme as become as a beloved "perfume" with high approval ratings.
But Dior Homme smells camp: lipstick and cheap make up counter.
It brought along several predecessors: "Dior Homme Cologne"(loved for me, but a fiasco regarding its lating),then "Dior Homme Intense".

Now:
"Dior Homme Sport".

Perfumer: François Demachy.

Notes of citron, bergamot, grapefruit, ginger, rosemary, lavender, elemi, cedar, vetiver and sandalwood.

"Dior Homme Sport" is a simple, appealing minimal fragrance centered in ginger.
This is a citron and ginger fragance with dewy floral hints of lavender and salty touches, and hell, I love citrus perfumes, so this one is not an exception...


The juice opens with sharp ginger and gorgeous citron, mainly reamining along the whole life of the perfume.

A fresh clean yet semi sweet candy-spicy soliflor and salty undertones with the intrusion of the rosemary comes along when the formula settles down.
You can detect hints of herbal touches from the elemi here and there, but the main notes are the citron lavender and ginger still.

It develops a little less citrusy with soft spices and touches of woods: a clean ghostly sandalwood and cedar.

Classy, elegant & sexy.
Dior Homme Sport amazes me with salty notes, which is totally different from so many fresh scents out there.
This one, quite strong, very fresh, yet style and attractive.
A expensive cologne for the casuals.
It has, as "Dior Homme cologne" a alroght lasting power but a really nice sillage.



"Dior Homme Intense" is an Eau de Parfum limited version based in floral and woody-leather accords.

Perfumer: Unknown.

Notes of lavender, iris, hisbiscus seeds (ambrette), vanilla, amber, Virginia cedar and vetiver.

Again, "Intense" as its old brother, is centered on the Iris note, but this time, the reformulated formula incorpores a brand new dimension of obscure iris.
The iris and gourmand notes are still present and dominant but there's a new twist, immediately obvious when the perfume develops.

When first applied, "Intense" smells warmer (nice blast of amber), and less sweet than the original.
The bloody iris (strong, powdery floral note that caused me and many others grief in the original Dior Homme) appears after the initial notes faded away, and brings a sweet powdery accent again, but this time is acompained to a strong obscure note in its background. I swear that is a "hidden" violet leaf that make the juice developing dark, with an animalistic, leathery and sweeter accent.
There is definitely something leathery and smoky in the background of "Intense", (Ambrette seeds have a slightly musky and animal smelling yet lightly fruity and sweet too), but unfortuantely, too much faded off by the sweetness and lipstick Iris.

My veredict:
To my nose, it's disgusting iris (aka lipstick-make up powder) with nice hints of violet leaf, animalistic notes on a woody base.
It's kind of a deep, feminine version of Grey Flannel, in a way.
It still has a too much powdery touch for my taste.
I guess a lot of guys will find this one too camp for them, but I'm sure, also, they will have loads of devotes, as the original one.
Copyright © 2009 . All rigths reserved.

Dior Homme. Christian Dior.

Perfumist: Olivier Polge.

Notes of bergamot, cardamom, sage, Italian iris absolute, cocoa, amber, vetiver, lavender, patchouli, leather.

It seems that the new male releases from the Dior house had created controvertial issues.

This particular one win the lottery.

Is the most androgenous perfume created for men that I reach since "Le Male" by Gaultier.

Altough, I much prefer this one.

It's has a well made balance within masculinity and feminity that intrigues me strongly.

The juice is based in the Iris flower accord. Strong, sweet, deep and powdery.

It start just enough clean and zesty, to be liked. The cardamom here is so realistic and just gorgeous. Since you first spray it, you get the iris-like-lipstick note, created with the union of iris, powdery amber and cacao accords. It's quite linear.

The only change on the formula, is the crescent of that lipstick-makeup bag smell. The zesty notes basicly dissapear in a minute.

After 1 hour of apply the fragrance develops into something moore pleasant and light woody, (thank God got that), and that irritable feminine aura seems to fade away giving way a nice soft lavander and patchouli touch.

It's not that I dislike this funny note, I think It's just too much, It's too much on your face.

It's very avant garde for sure, I'm sure will go into a classic, with a every day grown number of fans.

The longevity is more than acceptable and I have to admit that this perfume smell much way better on projection that close skin.

The 2 first hour sniff is just like been in a perfume shop counter, then goes more nice and masculine.

Even so, not for me.

Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

Diorissimo. Christian Dior

Perfumist: Edmond Roudnitska

Notes of bergamot, muguet, amarillys, boronia, jasmin and civet.

Probably, one of the best perfumes created for women, that, even now, still an icon since It launch on 1956
At that age, It has been marked as too trendy, but It went a logical and brave step forward on that period, where perfumes were too heavy and sweet.

I always found it easy to wear, and It has been my top one on my floral list, and still.
It projects excellently on men flesh like mine, and I get so many compliments, wherever I go.
This fragrance sexy as hell, starts really green and zesty, sharp.
The main note here, being a quite linear perfume is the lily of the valley (aka. as muguet).
It's a rich, deep note, that fix perfectly with the bergamot on the top notes
On the heart notes the muguet still domain the composition, but there's too a hint of a wonderful jasmin, blended with a shy halo of soft woods, (rose wood?¿!). I can't get the Amarillys and boronia notes, (It happens often when you sniff a rich complex floral bouquet based fragrance, when two o three notes domains the others).
It's a really pity, as I absolutely adore the Amarillys flower fragrance. It's just irresistible. (Amarillys Belladona Specimen). I'm playing right now with this on one formula for men, but that's another history. it can be detected for instance in the glorious Passage D'enfer... :)
I never smelled boronia isolate, so i can't really tell much about It really.

Civet end the olfatory pyramid with a insolit twist, like an animalistic note, nearly fecal, that personally I found quite masculine for a women perfume.
The last long is just average, I suppose because of the lack of more fixatives, but at least, stays in your skin enough to gets addictive.

Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

Farenheit 32, Christian Dior.

Perfumers: Francois Demachy and Louise Turner.
Countains orange blossom (petitgrain), iris, rose, violet, vetiver and vanilla.

It's a real true juxtapose of higly sweetness vs. the sour and earthy notes.
There's something around It that make It little medicinal, smoky but sour too but I still can't figure out what It is yet.


I've never smelt anything like this. Even though it's good for winter, i think it's nice and clean for summer
Starts fresh and flowery. Petitgrain is the common flower of the orange tree. It has a distinctive citric soft aroma yet flowery.
I'm not really kin of this one, but then as I said above the petit grain fades away and appears the vetiver, sour and potent blending with a distinctive touch of vanilla.
The vanilla is promient yet very synthetic in an odd way. It is no as sweet as you can expect. It's much more fresh. I'm sure that contains musk, not shown in the pyramid, 'cause the dry down is more green and musty.
It's caothic the first hour, but then calms down in a real addictive dry down.


It's a new concept of modern oriental. Not spices here, It's fresh but not as much to be catalogued as a clean fragance, it's not woody at all too, to be woody. It's sweet, but fresh too in a fascinating way, specially when smelled in the distance.
it's just hard to catalogue really.
It surely has some coldness in it which I like.
Good for a summer perfume and even for winter nights.
Simple and elegant yet strong. Quite asexual too. I can see many women wearing this one.
It smells very "cold". It puzzles me: it's fresh yet not that kind of fresh, flowery and soapy but very sexy and distinguished.
I like that it's powerful and long lasting: sillage is monster and project as nothing I tried before, actually smell much better on projection than close to skin IMO, but smells too flowery and that medicinal vanilla smell going on... I'm not sure.
It won't be in my top list for sure but I have to admit that is a vey well done perfume and lots of people would find it addictive.
© 2007 . All rigths reserved.