Spring perfumes

The warm weather comes back and with it, my outdoors social life and the never ending walks under the sun.
Here I leave you all the following list so you can find a good fragrance to confort yourself!


10:10 am in Sicilia is Kenzo´s new launch from the travel-retail-exclusive series. This new juice evokes the morning atmosphere of the Italian south shore. The composition is created as a citrus - floral - woody with notes of grapefruit, mandarin, bergamot, peony, freesia, fig tree, cedar wood and vetiver.


Angel Sunessence Ocean d'Argent is this year's summery version of the glorious "Angel".
It opens with fresh notes of kumquat citrus fruit, sea salt, ginger flower, patchouli and vanilla.


L’Eau par Kenzo Wild man / woman limited editions:
the woman fragrance explores the sparkling and fresh floral-fruity aromas with mandarin, green lilac, wild mint, rose wood, jasmine, amaryllis, lotus, Guinea pepper, white peach, vanilla, musk flower and blue cedar while the men is a refreshing aromatic-spicy fragrance with notes of lemon, ginger, coriander, mint, cardamom, sage, cedar wood and white musk.


Bvlgary Aqua and Marine summer versions:
Aqva Pour Homme Toniq is an invigorating fragrance with lemon, peppermint, Posidonia sea weed, vetiver and amber.
Aqva Pour Homme Marine Toniq represents the freshness of mineral waters with pear, grapefruit, crystal ice, Posidonia, sandalwood and white cedar.


Zen for Men White Heat comes in a silver-white bottle, offering an icy, fresh and aromatic combination of mint, green apple, lime, hassaku fruit, rhododendron, cardamon, juniper, green ginger, musk, sandalwood and salvia.


BLOOD CONCEPT is a niche twist where no flowers to be found:
AB - an unisex mineral composition with aldehydes, aluminium, slate, pebble, cedar wood and metallic notes.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.

Cologne. Tierry Mugler

Perfumer: Alberto Morillas.
Notes of petitgrain, bergamot, nerolí, "s" note, orange flower blosson and musk.

"Cologne" is an atemporal cologne and when I write cologne I really mean it.

It is green, soapy, soft and clean. Don't expect much more.
The fragrance is minimal as a citrusy green flowery aroma.

After the uplifting opening it turns almost immediately to a green, soapy skin scent, with a touch of neroli and vetiver to give some floral touch to the central musk accord.

"Cologne" is also disappointing because it lacks of the natural nunace you will normaly expect in a cologne. To my nose it owns a weird unnatural accent ("s" note anyone?)that bring me olfative images of steamy baths, meaning that if you could capture the smell of having a cold shower in a hot summer afternoon, it will smell like "Cologne".

Don't get me wrong. This is not a bad scent. I just don't particularly care for it.
I personally think that is boring and a little overpriced being just a trendy splash all over cologne.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.

Womanity. Tierry Mugler.

Thierry Mugler finally launches something new (perhaps) focusing now in a much wider general public and avoiding the unnecessary extension of the Angel or Alien's ranges.

Perfumist: Mane
Notes of fig, caviar and fig tree woods.

Despiste the feminine name and the horrid desing of the bottle dancing between the ghotic and the art decó, the juice is definitively unisex. It is extrangely interesting: a really unusual salty fig.
My first impression was a loud yet original sweet-sour perfume.

"Womanity" opens (and remains) linear with the thick and sharp note of the fig fruit catching wonderfuly the coconut-like undertone of it but lacking the characteristic greenish feeling of this fruit.
Mostly immediately the fig joins the stage with a weird salty note coming from the caviar that to me smells like fresh open shellfish as for instance, oysters.
It is a mainly fruity perfume with the dense salty, mysterious note of caviar. It is therefore a full-fledged gourmand perfume, foody (seafood) and carnal-frity.
The fragrance stays heady with great salty fruit touches and just after a few hours after apply the soft woody nuances come to life just as a whisper and then is when the fragrance becomes a little quieter.

My honest opinion: this is a very well done, addictive perfume.
A weird masterpiece where powerful contrast of elements merge beautifuly.
It has a fresh aura without having citric notes; it is welcoming , intimate, comforting as well as unique.

It is surprisely marked as a definitely feminine scent like it has happened before with Angel. Not to my nose and for some many other men noses around.
Both are masterpieces and both had not a single flower in the note list.
The funny thing about it is I own both in my perfume collection and I wear them with much confidence while I recieve loads of positive complimets.
Where have all the open-minded perfumist fans gone?

It has a decent long lasting (up to 7 hours) and the sillage is quite amazing leaving behind you a beautiful trail.
Copyright © 2011. All rights reserved.

Flowers are for men.

I can't help to talk again about this new trend going on currently, based on "the new man" and the perfumer's interpretation of this new social specimen breaking boundaries in the masculine perfumery world.

I'd lie if I said that from my personal and particular point of view, all this has benefitted me on a certain level because now I could wear socially certain perfumes with confidence when before, I would not dare to do it.

Knowing that most of the masculine new floral perfumes are always based on the same boring concept, (sticky-powdery-definitively feminine), I start to wonder:
Why can I not wear a women's fragrance which actually does smell not even remotely as feminine as for example "Dior Homme" or "Kenzo Power"?
Meanwhile I'm still waiting for "the release", that one which will surprise me pleasantly, but no joy so far.
Iris, petit grain and violet. Is there not anything new under the sun, please?
I am getting to the point where I start to believe that perfumer's creativity is starting to vanish.

Summer is around the corner and I keep looking for the perfect fresh floral.
Being aware of the limited market in Spain,I decided to leave aside prejudices, go girly and try on some "hidden gems" created specifisally for women that, on a male skin, they just smell delightful.

Eau de Fleur de Silk by Kenzo.
An uncomplicated, light delightful fresh, clean floral scent.
Countains bergamot, pink guava, mint leaves,silk flower, cherry, musk, amber.

Black Orchid by Tom Ford.
A dark floral-gourmard scent.
Notes of black truffle, ylang ylang, bergamot, black currant, mandarine, jasmine, gardenia, lotus wood, black orchid, chocolate, patchouli, incense, vetiver, vanilla tears, balsam, sandalwood.

Eau de Fleur de Magnolia by Kenzo.
An uplifting citrus-flowery scent.
Notes of bergamot, citron, heliotrope, spruce, champaca absolute, vetiver, musk.

Eau De Givenchy by Givenchy.
This is a crisp, sheer, simple, almost clean floral, very sparkling and cheerful.
Notes of bergamot, spearmint, tagetes, greens, fruits, honeysuckle, jasmine, lily of the valley, tuberose, rose, cyclamen, orris, musk, cedarwood, sandalwood, and moss.

L'eau par Kenzo by Kenzo.
A gorgeous aquatic-youthful scent. My favourite for years.
Notes of mandarin, frosty water mint, reed, fressia, watermelon seeds, pink pepper, water lily, amarillys, blue cedar and infusion of vanilla pods.

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen.
An impressive oriental.
It has orange, mandarin orange, mint, neroli, bergamot, lemon, carnation, ginger, rhubarb, jasmine, cumin, celery seeds, rose, amber, musk and oakmoss.


Cristalle Eau Verte by Chanel.
It is a really sophisticated, green, young, elegant, not boring, elusive, refreshing scent.
Countains sicilian lemon, bergamot, magnolia, neroli, white flowers and jasmine.

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker.
A discrete ambery floral tending to the patchouli side. It has resemblances to "Power" by Kenzo.
Countains nectarine and bergamot, rosewood, lavender, apple martini, white daffodil, orchid, white amber, cedar, woody notes, patchouli and white musk.

Aire Loco by Loewe.
It is a fresh, sheer, ozonic white floral-fruity perfume Despite the company.
Notes of bergamot, pink pepper, freesia, cardamom, ozonic accord, jasmin, passion fruit, petitgrain, rockrose, magnolia patchouli and virginian cedar.´


Diorissimo by Dior.
It is a beautiful and classic floral fragrance, based on a fresh, green, animalic and very subtle spicy interpretation of the lily of the valley scent. Great for anytime, anywhere, any season and any age.
Notes of bergamot, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, lilac, jasmine, amaryllis, boronia, sandalwood and civet.

Diorella by Dior.
A green chypre. Another Dior's classic.
It has lemon, green note, basil, bergamot, melon, honeysuckle, peach, jasmine, rose, carnation, cyclamen, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, patchouli.

Esencia de duende by Jesús del Pozo.
An aquatic fresh yet warm fragrance.
Notes of coriander, mandarin, orange, grapefruit, bergamot, jasmine, hiacynth, lily of the valley, lotus, rose, sandalwood, cedar and mahogany.

Escape a Portofino by Dior.
It is a blindingly bright perfume with a powerful, invigorating citrus accent.
Countains bergamot, lemon verbena, petit grain, orange blossom, juniper berries, cedar, cypress, galbanum, caraway and musk.

A Scent by Issey Miyake.
A very fresh, green and yet elegant floral scent.
It has amalfi lemon, lemon verbena, hyacinth, jasmin, cedar and galbanum.

#3 by Comme des Garçons.
The scent of an alien flower. A real chyphre-woody floral.
Notes of mandarin, magnolia leaf, basil, gingko leaf, blackcurrant leaf, red pepper, angelica, cardamom, mate, freesia, jasmine, champaca flower, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, birch, olibanum, amber.

Kashaya by Kenzo.
A sadly "very hard to find" gorgeous, gentle oriental. Graceful woody, soft yet characteristic perfume for a hunting night.
Notes of tangerine, bergamot, pineapple, anise, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, narcissus, tuberose, orchid, hyacinth, rose, lily, carnation, sandalwood, amber, white musk, benzoin and cedar.

Nilang by Lalique.
It is another "hard to find" unique aquatic, bitter-floral-oriental scent with a sensual and gourmand edge.
Countains water jasmine, freesia, water lily and narcissus, blueberry, lotus, sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla and praline.

Miroir des secrets by Thierry Mugler.
It is a bright, floral aldehyde fragrance.
Countains aldehydes, patchouli and musk.

She Wood by DSQUARED².
A juxtapose betwwen aquatic and woody agaisnt powdery floral notes. Soft, warm and deep. A weird yet enjoyable scent.
Countains lemon, aquatic notes, neroli, jasmine, violet, heliotrope, musk, cedar, vetiver and amber.

Omnia Green Jade by Bvlgari.
A clean, green floral aquatic. This perfume is soft ethereal and refreshing but dries down into as powdery scent.
It has green mandarin, spring water, white peony, pear blossom, jasmine, pistachio, blond wood and musk.

Parfum D'ete by Kenzo.
It is a fresh yet powerful, green floral perfume.
Countains jasmin, hyacinth, lily of the valley and lotus.

Calyx by Prescriptives.
A sensory therapy. Bright and vivacious. Wet, fresh and fruity-herbal elixir.
Notes of bergamot, apricot, passionfruit, mint, orange, cassia, mango, cyclamen, lily, melon, freesia, orris root, jasmine, neroli, marigold, lily of the valley, rose, musk, oakmoss, raspberry and cedar.

Eau des Merveilles by Hermès.
A real masterpiece. Woody, dry, spicy yet zesty and deliciously salty.
It has lemon, orange, elemi, pink pepper, vetiver, oak, cedar, ambergris.

Jasmin et cigarette by ETAT.
Smoky floral. Pity the longevity is so mediocre.
Notes of Jasmin Absolut, tobacco, apricot, tonka, hay, cedar, amber and Musk.

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens.
A dark, mysterioyus floral scent. A tuberose glory.
It eatures coconut, tuberose, tonka bean, almond, lemon blossom, mandarin, orange, musk, chinese osmanthus, heliotrope and myrrh.

Do son by Diptyque.
It is a beautiful white floral fragrance, fresh, natural and enchanting.
It is like finding an abandoned garden, that nobody takes care of.
Notes of african orange flower, rose, tuberose, benzoin, iris and musk.

Anais Anais by Cacharel.
Despiste it is definitively an ultra-feminine fresh, romantic bouquet of flowers, it actually smells damm hot in a male.
Coutains bergamot, transparent orange blossom, lavender, galbanum, black currant, hyacinth, honeysuckle, tuberose, carnation, grenade blossom, iris, yland-ylang, white lily, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, orris root, leather, sandalowood, amber, patchouli, msuk, oakmoss, vetiver, cedar and incense.

Photo-art courtey of dragoncello64
Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved.

Miroir des Vanities. Tiery Mugler.

Perfumer: Alexis Dadier.

Notes of citral, quinina, cinchona bark, licorice, vetiver.


Part of the "Dare the metamorphosis" unisex perfume line.

An effervescent woody aromatic fragrance swimming in the masculine side with a distinctive unpredictable and addictive touch.

"Vanities" starts delicious, with a delightful sweet-tart bubbly citrus top notes, that, unfortunately, rapidly fades off and force us to dive into a dark, deep blend of licorice and noble woods.

We all by now that Mugler's world is all full of contrasts, make it paradoxical, extravagant, even powerful yet fragile.

The whole marketing soul is well represented in this juice; there's a magnificent, seriously addictive note in the background that bring me olfatory pictures of an effervescent drink. Maybe the citral used in the glorious CDG "Soda", as both shared that bubbly body. According to Osmoz.com the hidden note is no more, not less than the quinine (a bitter note that you’ll recognize from Schweppes Indian Tonic).
It actually makes a lot of sense. Just in a second, I can feel the effervescence.

The scent becomes beautiful and sharp, with overdoses of licorice, maybe "too much on my face", for an anti-licorice nose as mine, but melting grandly with the quinina.


Being patience till we raise the drydown, you will be rewarded by an ambery-incense note as in a very handsome, manly, kind.

Unisex?. I don't really think so. I can't picture any woman wearing this even it, really. Too manly, delicious, dark, but at the same time, bright. I love it.

Projection is massive and the perfume as all of the Mugler's house has a loongg lasting time.
Copyright © 2008 . All rigths reserved

Miroir des secrets. Tierry Mugler.

Embrace your naturalness

Perfumer: Domitille Bertier.

Contains grapefruit, aldehydes, musk, patchouli and sandalwood.

Part of the "Dare the metamorphosis" unisex perfume line.
A great, vibrant and dazzling bittersweet aldehyde perfume.


Simple, airy, yet extremely sophisticated, "Secrets" opens zesty with a blend of aldehydes and a bright grapefruit note, vivid and bitter. I just love the bitter accent on it.

The conception of the aldehydes here is much more natural than other references, being a complete waste as a note, remaining mostly as principal in the whole life of the juice. Unique in its own path. Minimalistic, enigmatic, a real pleasure to explore a complete different dimension into a synthetic note such the aldehyde, represented here as a powerful and gazzling.

After 20mt of apply the perfume touches the ground and the patchouli enters such in a soft-quality, not in an earthy way, being, perhaps, more subtle, and giving a complex aura in the formula when, actually, it decants in a minimal character.
The patchouli note is here alright, sparkly, playful, showing face, clean and shy.
The musk hand by hand with the sandalwood, come along in the base notes, bringing a pleasant, high quality, luxurious twist in the perfume heart.


A genuine, androgynous, glorious bitter scent that, on my nose, fits perfectly on a modern yet classy man skin.
The lasting power is sublime as all Mugler creations.
Copyright © 2008 . All rigths reserved

Ice*men. Tierry Mugler.

Perfumist: Jacques Huclier.

Notes of: aquatic notes, secret citrus, oxygen notes, iced coffee, sequoia, patchouli, caramel, nutmeg, musk.

For some people, a rebranded launch of the succesful "A*men summer flash".
For others, a copy of "Ben Gay".
The ultimate gayless product despite of its marketing. Will it become gay-friendly?.

It's a simple compostion of synthetic odorless notes with initial aquatic blast followed by ghostly presence of gourmad.

It opens clean, nearly odorless, if honest ; transaprent-synthetic-ozonic notes, that fades away but not completely, (this clean oxygen note goes all over the formula). The citrus notes appears quite quickly and the secret is revealed. To my nose the top notes are simple bergamot and citron. Bold but exquisite simplicity. Only the top notes has an aquatic recognition, as the perfume goes drier as it evolutionates. This is the main difference between this launch and the A*Men fresh version. This time the pyramid has been touched and they added a short lived aquatic note, while the original A*Men summer splash was more citrusy and green.

The scent has a quite linear caracther. If Ice*Men had a colour, I would choose light blue velvet: prominent coffee notes (but oddly washed off turning ethereal. I do like this twist), hand to hand by pure ozone ,wet synthetic notes that they're gone in a second, and then, the juice just dries down into something more organic. The pyramid says it's a caramel note, but for me it smells similar to a suede-like liquorice. There's a tiny hint of sequoia around but not strong enough. The same as the nugmet, and like the patchouli, that reveals itself, in the dry down, just like a wisper with the musky notes.

This is what is all about. A whisper.

Don't get me wrong. From all the range of Mugler's choices, I'd pick this one, but I really doubt that it will come up to my top list.
At the end, the whole perfume is just a shadow. Good for those (like me) who couldn't stomach the sticky A*men version, and want to have a lighter version, but, for those who adore the original from Mugler, this launch can be a sonoric dissapointment.

Even so there's something missing in the final idea.

I like it, but I can choose so many peculiar and aquatic ones in a big range in my favourite list.

It's true that is well blended, as the older brother: B*Men, that I do enjoy too.

Both have different souls for different public. This one could be the closest image of what kind of perfume I do like, but not close enough.
I like it, but I keep sniffing, like I was trying to find the missing link, that is not anywhere.
Pity.
Lasting power: 5 hours maximum.

Copyright © 2008. All rigths reserved.

Angel. Thierry Mugler.

Perfumist: Olivier Cresp / Yves de Chiris.

Countains: bergamot, helional, nectarine, passion fruit, honey, dewberry, red berries, vanilla, caramel, patchouli, chocolate, coumarin.

My first ever gourmad perfume.

It's definitively a fantastic creation, in my opinion, way better if compared with the vile male version: A*Men.

Certainly the feminine version has a more pronounced icy methyl-ozonic note in the head (helional), that, hiddes in a nice way, the sweet of the base notes, (lack of presence in the sicky male version). This fragrance is a genius in a bottle...

I don't find it feminine at all. There's something going on with this perfume, that puzzles me. I have so many positive male complimets, but, in the other hand, females, normally, hate it strongly.

The formula is based in patchouli, chocolate, passion fruit and a tiny touch of vanilla.

I can understand why so many people hate this juice.

It's potent, as no one I ever raised before. The passion fruit can be too much initially, (it reacts very funny depending your chemistry skin), but, being patient enough, everything melts and calms, and in the end you get the patchouli (which never really dissapeared), a soft vanilla, and chocolate in the dry down, and you'll love it. If not, you are lost!

Angel is a great scent, wonderful for fall nights, and an innovation in the perfume industry, that will have predecesors, for sure.

Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

B*Men. Tierry Mugler

Perfumist: Christine Nagel and Jacques Huclier.

Countain: tangerine, cardamom, nutmeg, ivy leaves, rhubarb leaves, sequoia, vetiver, coffee leaves, hay, amber.

I higky recommend this one after the huge dissapointment of the initial A*Men. (I was expecting something as wonderful as the Angel Woman).

This perfume starts just slightly frity, with soft splashes of mandarin, quickly embraces with the cardamom and nutmeg. It has also a nice dewy rhubarb note, nothing like the deilicious "Rhubarb from Comme des garçons" but enough noticiable to be enjoyed.

The all formula goes rapidly after 20mt into a spicy form, and deep woody,and, basicly the sequoia wood empires till the drydown with shy hints of coffe and vetiver root.

With a fruity spicy opening, B*Men shows itself that has nothing to di with It terrible old brother A*Men.

It's more calmed, rather more balanced and seems much enjoyable to wear at any occasion, even still enough noticiable as the long lasting is just superb.

B*Men is a more controlled, mature and serious offering; its a dry-woody-spicy scent which smells nothing like A*Men.

Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.