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Showing posts with label Gaultier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gaultier. Show all posts

11.1.12

Kokorico. Jean Paul Gaultier.



"Kokorico" (what a weird, even stupid name) is the latest masculine release by Jean Paul Gaultier and is described as “a powerful and explosive aphrodisiac, emphasising woody and cocoa notes”.
The bottle is a black head with a cool feature: you can see the "Le Mâle" torso silhouette when turned on its side.


Perfumer: Olivier Cresp/Annick Menardo.
Notes of fig leaves, patchouli, cacao, iris, virginia cedar, tonka bean, vetiver.


"Kokorico" opens slightly green, acrid and dry. I expected something fresher though! Then cocoa, cocoa and more cocoa but not gourmandy as it melts with warm, dry woods (ambrox perhaps?) creating a bitter-dry cocoa scent with green notes in the background that definitively is not the fig leaf accord. Perhaps, at this stage, the vetiver becomes more apparent...
But there's also something else floating around, sweet and creamy, quiet at the start that gets louder as the perfume progresses.
Not bad. I am even impressed: a Gaultier's perfume that evades similarities with its older brothers.
Even so, soon, you'll start to experience a intense olfactory dejavú: "I have smelled this before"...

"Kokorico" is linear and only changes slightly after 20mt of apply, where an anise-like iris (and maybe lavender?) shows presence. To my nose is a very similar floral note as "Paul Smith Man". No lipstick, neither powdery accents: just a soft, spicy iris note minimized to the maximum.

Oddly enough by the time you get to the drydown, you still waiting for the "Ba Ba Boom" aspect in it, but sadly, everything is pretty much gone.
That is it. End of the story.
The remains: cheap and synthetic cocoa with vague patchouli and wood accords.
At this point it smells so cheap that loses quality. Disappointing.


It lacks projection to be noticiable enough and the fragrance longevity is just a joke: 2 hours and it's completely gone. Dissapear. Caput!

Unfortunately "Kokorico" won't bring nothing really exciting and new under the sun.
It doesn't have a particular personality as it resembles to many other perfumes i.e.: "B*Men", "L'istant Guerlain" or "Very Irresistible Men".
In brief, to my nose, possibly, "the worst launch of 2012" without the shadow of the doubt.
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9.11.07

Fleur du male. Jean paul Gaultier


Perfumist: Francis Kurkdjian.

Includes petitgrain, azahar, fern note and comaurin.

An honor of the poet Charles Baudelaire: the fragrance’s name is pronounced like Baudelaire’s famous collection of poems Les Fleurs du Mal, “The Flowers of Evil,” whereas the fragrance’s name means “Flower of the Male”). A new entrance of the modern fougere for men, but I should correct and add for the metrosexual really!.

It find it feminine, (even nasty), there's not problem raised yet as I wear sometimes feminine scents (more androgenous on my nose though). I like tuberose, jasmin, cyclamen...

Not keen on orange blossom flower.

Not even in real life as in the Mediterranean in Spring-Summer the atmosphere stinks on orange blossom becasue for example in South Spain there miles of land full of the orange trees, and I find it too sticky.The problem for me,is the neroli note. If you really like this note, go and try it, as is a very prominent note. You won't notice the azahar but you will smell a more strong level of the neroli note. Azahar is the same flower as neroli (aka. petitgrain, orange blossom...).Only diferrence is the fruit: is the lemon blosson of the lemon tree, smell the same, so then, the composition goes vomiting sticky as they double add the bloody note.Then comes the urine note.(fern note mixed with horrid coumarin). For me the dry down smells like the odour of someone that just pissed on the street during a hot day, It's just vile and remarkable,as you try to wash out and the smell goes stronger, and then comes the horrible powdery base, like talc powder, that's it.

Argh!. Vile.
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