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28.7.10

Wonderwood. Comme des Garçons




Perfumer: Antoine Lie.
Notes of Madagascan pepper, bergamot, coriander, nutmeg, Oud (Agarwood),
cedarwood, sandalwood, cypress wood, gaiacwood, patchouli, vetiver, javanol, cumin, cashmeran, Pachminol, somalian incense and cristalon.


Antoine Lie collaborates again with Kawakubo. He has being in the past behind the great 888 and two of the Series 8 Energy C fragrances.

Woody scents never been in my top list of favourite perfumes, but the idea of a fully composed woody fragrance intrigued me deeply.
My main concern with this unvareable hot weather was:
- This is going to be heavy and overwhelming-. But the reality is a light mosaic of woods in a juice.

"Wonderwood" starts light with soft spices followed by cypress, guaiac and touches of vetiver.
The woody nuances are lighter from start to end.
Mostly you will only get a vivid cypress-conifer smell blended with soft clean woods.

It develops deep with the addition of cedar, cumin, oud and patchouli resulting in a light-sweet twist floating around you. Underneath all the notes, there is a velvety-woody note I’m familiar with, that brings a much more patchouli presence, making it gains in intensity as "Wonderwood" heads to the base: the cashmeran.

The synthetic side appears shy, especially the cristalon that gives a apple-rose-like powdery texture towards the strong woody aspect the natural sandalwood adds.

Through the drydown the winner is the cedar with soft spices, light powdery accords in the background and some cypress.

It may be me or perhaps my nose, but this smells rather too similar (trying to avoid the adverb "exactly") like CDG "Dover Street": "Wonderwood " is a little bit lighter without the "Dover's" pugnent & cinamom accords.
The note that make the little different between them is the cypress.
Funny thing to say. I was puzzled when I sample it, so I decided to try both in my wrists and I hardly could find any difference appart from the concentration, the cypress note and the projection.

After all, this new launch is a lovely, nice balanced perfume for woody lovers, but I particulary think that it has a lack of originality, especially when It has so much in common with other CDG perfume and, to my personal taste, they are already in the market better woody perfumes. Although I may worth a look.

Being a light perfume, is perfectly suitable for hot or cold seasons and It definitively leans to a masculine side instead to the unisex.
"Wonderwood" has a below average longevity and average sillage.
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