
Perfumist: Rei kawakubo.
Countains: mandarin, magnolia leaf, basil, gingko leaf, blackcurrant leaf, red pepper, angelica, cardamom, mate, freesia, jasmine, champaca flower, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, birch, olibanum, amber.
The concept: how an imaginary flower would smell like.
The result: a very synthetic juice wich loads of impecable notes, yet odd, but all together it works beautifully...
This scent is an alive, kind of primal, minimal but complex aswell.
There's a sensorial trip with loads of different reminescents, colours and shadows: green, yellow, pink, white and silver accompains the scent. Then all gets black, pitch black.
Starts with a splash of green zesty and herbal notes. The blackcurrant leave note is higly prominent, and share the stage with gingko and mandarin. A fake flowery blossom appears in my mind, I can't stop breathing in the aroma that project around me. How beautiful!, but.. Soon the formula gets darker and deep, smoky and sticky with loads of angelica, champaca and smoky cedar, straighforward, so quick that you have
to sniff twice to believe it, (in this particular perfume the pyramid notes are very distinctively separated).
There's a hint of blackcurrant leaves giving a green touch, as it blends with airy freesia, but, the main colour of the scent now is dark, oppresive sometimes.
The vetiver raises juts dry and muddy, and for a moment you can sniff something sticky, oily perhaps, that i can't figure out.
The smokiness of the precious wood get at this moment prominent joining a balsamic angelica root.
There's a hint of kerosene now. I think is the mix of blackcurrant leaves and the angelica.
Hold on, a zesty similar touch as the opening top notes is coming back, and emerges shy but noticiable.
The tart green plays against the woods in harmony as in olfactory polytonality. This is like a technological olfatory dream.
The effect is terribly clever. The dry down is getting subtle some tart wishpers, with champaca, dry woods and amber notes.
Another fab creation from CDG.
Definitively artistical and teathrical for sure. The long lasting is good enough and the projection is good enough to be noticiable.
The champaca note, as in "Guerilla 1" can putt off some men. A scent for the brave niche.
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