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14.11.07

Odeur 53. Comme des Garçons.


Perfumist: Martine Pallix.

This is the best of the synthetic genre, as far as I'm concerned.

Abstraction is what modern perfume has been trying to reach all through the 20th century, trying to escape the conventionalism of the period.

Odeur 53 is like a cubist piece of art. Abstraction is the main word here.

It contains 53 different inert or inorganic notes as : freshness of oxygen, flash of metal, fire energy, washing drying in the wind, the mineral intensity of carbon, sand Dunes, nail polish, cellulosic smell, pure air of the high mountains, ultimate fusion, burnt rubber, flaming rock, and much more...

My own nose could guess that more than 60% of the formula is comprised of hedione, a chemical molecule that represents a radiant jasmine odour in a dusty way. The rest is an absolutely amazing recreation of an electric feeling in the air, heavy and charged like just after a thunderstorm. I can even smell the electricity on it.

The IFF describes it as “a perfume that evokes images, creating your own air around you,” and "a memory of a smell'", a olfatory deja vú.
I couldn't agree more with this synopsis. There is no air freshener here, nor detergents or laundry cleaning powder.
It's the capture of natural odorous ozone. Hard to explain without the bottle in front of you; impossible, in fact.

Odeur 53 starts ozonic but grey, but not heavy enough to bring reminiscence of anything like a real flower, but something like the hint of jasmine floats through the airy, transparent blend.
About the rest of the notes, I cannot detect even a hint of the cellulosic or fire energy, but there's a definite metallic accord, light one, and also a touch of linen drying in the sun.
The nail polish is, maybe, evident in the alcohol-heavy opening but it doesn't last more than 2 seconds.
Later, there is a vague hint of something such as lemon tang.The fragance turns more dusty now, even electric. I can visualize now, images of thunderstorms and heated pavement of cities, drying off after the heavy rain; maybe carbon accord here is getting obvious, but still heady remains the clean, transparent ozone dominating note.

It is so incredibly easy to wear, at any occasion.
The silage and projection are the best I've been experienced.
A highly recommended scent.
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