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20.2.08

Ice*men. Tierry Mugler.


Perfumist: Jacques Huclier.

Notes of: aquatic notes, secret citrus, oxygen notes, iced coffee, sequoia, patchouli, caramel, nutmeg, musk.

For some people, a rebranded launch of the succesful "A*men summer flash".
For others, a copy of "Ben Gay".
The ultimate gayless product despite of its marketing. Will it become gay-friendly?.

It's a simple compostion of synthetic odorless notes with initial aquatic blast followed by ghostly presence of gourmad.

It opens clean, nearly odorless, if honest ; transaprent-synthetic-ozonic notes, that fades away but not completely, (this clean oxygen note goes all over the formula). The citrus notes appears quite quickly and the secret is revealed. To my nose the top notes are simple bergamot and citron. Bold but exquisite simplicity. Only the top notes has an aquatic recognition, as the perfume goes drier as it evolutionates. This is the main difference between this launch and the A*Men fresh version. This time the pyramid has been touched and they added a short lived aquatic note, while the original A*Men summer splash was more citrusy and green.

The scent has a quite linear caracther. If Ice*Men had a colour, I would choose light blue velvet: prominent coffee notes (but oddly washed off turning ethereal. I do like this twist), hand to hand by pure ozone ,wet synthetic notes that they're gone in a second, and then, the juice just dries down into something more organic. The pyramid says it's a caramel note, but for me it smells similar to a suede-like liquorice. There's a tiny hint of sequoia around but not strong enough. The same as the nugmet, and like the patchouli, that reveals itself, in the dry down, just like a wisper with the musky notes.

This is what is all about. A whisper.
Don't get me wrong. From all the range of Mugler's choices, I'd pick this one, but I really doubt that it will come up to my top list.
At the end, the whole perfume is just a shadow. Good for those (like me) who couldn't stomach the sticky A*men version, and want to have a lighter version, but, for those who adore the original from Mugler, this launch can be a sonoric dissapointment.

Even so there's something missing in the final idea.
I like it, but I can choose so many peculiar and aquatic ones in a big range in my favourite list.
It's true that is well blended, as the older brother: B*Men, that I do enjoy too.
Both have different souls for different public. This one could be the closest image of what kind of perfume I do like, but not close enough.
I like it, but I keep sniffing, like I was trying to find the missing link, that is not anywhere.
Pity.
Lasting power: 5 hours maximum.
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