Perfumer: Ralf Schwieger.
Countains: vetiver, oak, cedar, ambergris, lemon, orange, elemi, pink pepper, amber.
I was speaking yesterday on the phone, on my way to the theatre, with one friend of mine from the gorgeous city of Lisbon, who is a highly cologne junkie as me, about some new launches and so, when it pass on my mind the image of eau des Merveilles, knowing his own taste...
This review is dedicated to you, my friend Humberto.
From translucent amber and delicately sweet glow of citrus, to a noticeable ink note and prominent ambergris, this is a perfume of juxtaposition - even the notes are upside down. It decants to the feminine public, but i find it highly unisex (not masculine), because of the lack of floral notes in the pyramid.
It starts as it finishes; rather linear, sweet, but not overly sweet. It's more heady and projectable: it is as though you are sniffing a breeze in the atmosphere, around you, not coming from you. Like the sea breeze.
People talk about this perfume in marine aquatic terms. No, no way. It has prominent, acrid, salty ambergris but has the lack of kelp or ozonic aura.
I swear to God that it has so many similarities with Terre D'Hermes that to me, they're mostly the same fragrance with added salty notes when both fragances dry down.
As I said earlier, the juice starts and finishes lineally, with a ghostly hint of orange in the background combined with nice pepper layers. But the whole perfume centers itself in an oddly nice note of ink melting with the ambergris; a funny note that reminds me the smell of a squid when I wash it before cooking, no joke. It sounds disgusting, but the reality is that it works in the final formula.
The ambergis here is lively, sharp, salty even minerally too; a gorgeous synthetic representation. To those who don’t know what is ambergris, I'll explain:
Ambergris is a solid, waxy material produced in the sperm whale.It's formed in the rectum of the whale by the indigestible parts of the animals on which it feeds (the beaks and cuttlefish of squid, normally).
The ambergris is usually expulsed naturally when the whale dies. When initially released from the whale it is pale white and soft with a strong animalistic smell.
Over a period of some months, through exposure to the elements, the ambergris oxidises and becomes darker in colour, and it loses its unpleasant odour.
Ambergris scent is often described as being musky and having a sweet earthy aroma unlike any other, or a mossy fragrance reminiscent of the damp forest floor with salty hints. Fresh collected ambergris, (which is raw, black and sticky), is rather offensive when sniffed. If you can figure out scented cow excrement, you will be in the right place then. Many people expect ambergris to have a very strong or foul odour, but this is not the case. The strong base animal odour fades as the ambergris cures, as it needs to, actually, to be treated to get the amazing slightly salty scent. However, the white and grey varieties, in particular, possess the subtle, sweet addictive aroma that beachcombing dreams are made of.
Due to demand for ambergris and its high price, replacement components have been used in the fragrance industry and chemically synthesized.The most important of these is "ambrox", which has largely taken its place and is the most widely used ambergris-replacement odorant in perfume manufacture.
I detect after a couple of hours a little close to my skin, a whisper of the dark green elemi herb mixing with cedar, but the main note is still the amazing "ambrox"...
The scent endures for a very generous maximum 6 hours , but the perfume goes more close-to-skin after 3/4 hours. There are more versions such as Elixir des Merveilles" but they are the same as the original but with an increase of ambergris...
Countains: vetiver, oak, cedar, ambergris, lemon, orange, elemi, pink pepper, amber.
I was speaking yesterday on the phone, on my way to the theatre, with one friend of mine from the gorgeous city of Lisbon, who is a highly cologne junkie as me, about some new launches and so, when it pass on my mind the image of eau des Merveilles, knowing his own taste...
This review is dedicated to you, my friend Humberto.
From translucent amber and delicately sweet glow of citrus, to a noticeable ink note and prominent ambergris, this is a perfume of juxtaposition - even the notes are upside down. It decants to the feminine public, but i find it highly unisex (not masculine), because of the lack of floral notes in the pyramid.
It starts as it finishes; rather linear, sweet, but not overly sweet. It's more heady and projectable: it is as though you are sniffing a breeze in the atmosphere, around you, not coming from you. Like the sea breeze.
People talk about this perfume in marine aquatic terms. No, no way. It has prominent, acrid, salty ambergris but has the lack of kelp or ozonic aura.
I swear to God that it has so many similarities with Terre D'Hermes that to me, they're mostly the same fragrance with added salty notes when both fragances dry down.
As I said earlier, the juice starts and finishes lineally, with a ghostly hint of orange in the background combined with nice pepper layers. But the whole perfume centers itself in an oddly nice note of ink melting with the ambergris; a funny note that reminds me the smell of a squid when I wash it before cooking, no joke. It sounds disgusting, but the reality is that it works in the final formula.
The ambergis here is lively, sharp, salty even minerally too; a gorgeous synthetic representation. To those who don’t know what is ambergris, I'll explain:
Ambergris is a solid, waxy material produced in the sperm whale.It's formed in the rectum of the whale by the indigestible parts of the animals on which it feeds (the beaks and cuttlefish of squid, normally).
The ambergris is usually expulsed naturally when the whale dies. When initially released from the whale it is pale white and soft with a strong animalistic smell.
Over a period of some months, through exposure to the elements, the ambergris oxidises and becomes darker in colour, and it loses its unpleasant odour.
Ambergris scent is often described as being musky and having a sweet earthy aroma unlike any other, or a mossy fragrance reminiscent of the damp forest floor with salty hints. Fresh collected ambergris, (which is raw, black and sticky), is rather offensive when sniffed. If you can figure out scented cow excrement, you will be in the right place then. Many people expect ambergris to have a very strong or foul odour, but this is not the case. The strong base animal odour fades as the ambergris cures, as it needs to, actually, to be treated to get the amazing slightly salty scent. However, the white and grey varieties, in particular, possess the subtle, sweet addictive aroma that beachcombing dreams are made of.
Due to demand for ambergris and its high price, replacement components have been used in the fragrance industry and chemically synthesized.The most important of these is "ambrox", which has largely taken its place and is the most widely used ambergris-replacement odorant in perfume manufacture.
I detect after a couple of hours a little close to my skin, a whisper of the dark green elemi herb mixing with cedar, but the main note is still the amazing "ambrox"...
The scent endures for a very generous maximum 6 hours , but the perfume goes more close-to-skin after 3/4 hours. There are more versions such as Elixir des Merveilles" but they are the same as the original but with an increase of ambergris...
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