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9.11.07

Vierges et Toreros. Etat libre D'orange



Perfumers: Antoine Lie & Antonie Maisondieu.


Countains: bergamot, pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, tuberose, sweat accord, ylang, blood note, leather, dust accord, animalic base, costus, patchouli, and vetiver..


A second must-have choice from the niche new french company. A clever and well made balance between synthetic and real approachable accords.

I can see the link between virgins and bullfighters.
Bullfighters are very superstitious, and all of them kneel down in a chapel before an image of the Virgin Mary to pray before a “corrida”. T
he major Virgin of the toreros is in Seville, where the “Maestranza” bullring is located; that plaza de toros is the only one outside Madrid where bullfighters can receive la alternativa”, the diploma that promotes them to the rank of matador. The Virgin of the toreros in Seville is the “Virgen de la Macarena”...
Does the perfume conjure any images of kneeling bullfighters?. It certainly does.
If you have been into the culture of bullfighting, here in Spain, you'll understand the complexity of this wonderful perfume.

Well, it reflects the excited atmosphere on a bullfight arena, for me. Just a mental picture based on the name and the smell of the juice.In Spain, when the bullfighter, “matador” or “torero”, (whatever want you to call him), won against the beast, the female public with euphoria, used to throw him tuberosas as a sign of respect, emotion and in a flirty way too, a long time ago.

The perfume is based in dirty notes, animalistic and, as the company says it's a tuberosa-based fragrance for the male.You can detect the tuberosa all the way through. it's the main note surrounded by the others.It's highly masculine still.
Not very spicy, not citric (don't get the bergamot at all). The composition starts with a real burst of cardamom, nutmeg and idyllic tuberosa.
Warm and dry, the spices fades away and leave the flower notes alone in, waiting to blend with a shy synthetic blood accord, (sufficiently perceivable that you can almost taste the blood in your mouth), velvety ylang-ylang and then pure leather.
A hint of pathouli can start to be detected too and the sweat accord, but not nasty, It's more sexual, almost kinky in fact. It's raw leather, sweat, and dust; like the smell of the air transporting the smell of treated skin bags hanging on the walls into the Bazaar on Marrakech, and the smell of the locals trying to sell you stuff, in a flirty cheeky way (If you have been there, you'll get the picture). A fascinating recreation.

Dusty, flowery atmosphere, encounters the animalistic notes now, representing the bull.Costus here is extremely prominent and the sebum of a sweaty, sexy, masculine “macho” fighting against the animal remains, as the note of dust and blood that represent the arena fight, the dust around the air when both fight against each other and the blood falling on the arena floor, when the “matador” finishes his job killing the animal.

What a masterpiece. Even I found the bullfight a cruelty this perfume leave me spechless. I never liked tuberosa but know I'm addicted. It's really masculine; very, very manly.
If seduction had a smell this would be it.

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Picture courtesy by Etat libre D'Orange. Copyright © 2007 . All rigths reserved.

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